Today (man isn't cheap internet great?)

Went to Hoa Lu today. It's the old capital of Vietnam for those who DON'T know. Just saw some temples and climbed a mountain named something that when translated into English means Saddle Mountain (it looks like a saddle for those who DON'T know). The area termed teh citadel is about 3km squared and is on the flat ground (hence citadel I guess). It's still a pretty defensible spot though, as it's amongst all these big limestone cliffs that jut out of the ground. Connect thwe cliffs with walls and you're gravy.

Why did they move the capital? Emperor went out for a walk one day and saw a dragon in a cloud (like the cloud was dragon shaped). So the emperor being the guy that he is was all like, looks like a better spot for a capital. Worked out okay because in the year 2010 Hanoi is 1000 years old...now that ought to be a party.

After that we were off to Tam Coc. I don't know how this industry started, but you go to Tam Coc (aka Halong Bay on teh Rice Paddies and if you don't know Halong Bay look it up online) and you buy a ticket get in a little tin boat and get your ass rowed for two hours by some little old ladies. You go through rice paddies and under cliffs and there are three tunnels you go through. Very cool. Unfortunately because the rice isn't in season instead of a narrow river winding through bright green rice we had a narrow river winding through empty brown rice paddies. Oh well. Still nice. I also saw a very defensible position on this tour (except this time you'd need a stilt house because your position would be on the paddies).

The best part of the trip for me was how they work the tourists. Other than handiong me a paddle at the start (which I think they did because they figured I'd want to do it) they did nothing out of the ordinary on the outward leg. On the way back though they pull up along side some other ladies in boats laden with snacks, pop etc. We didn't buy anything, but then the food ladioes started suggesting we should buy some pops for our rowers as a tip "teep teep!" Of course if you do this and don't open it, the pop simply gets sold back to the vendors at half price, pretty sweet.
Then, since you're stuck on the boat they try to sell you hankies and tshirts that they've embroidered. They probably didn't even do it, probably really made in some sweatshop in Canada. Since we were big scrooges with the pop, they gave up quickly on teh textiles.

Then at the end of the ride they started asking for a teep, screeching teh word a dn rubbing thumb and forefinger (good thing that gesture made it over here). WHen we turned them down the one woman started cursing me out. At least that's my guess because I couldn't understand her, but she covered her mouth and mumbled it...I felt like swearing at her just to prove we were both oblivious but didn't. We ended up giving 1000 dong to each lady and they then proceeded to be startled at the paltry amount. But then one of their friends on shore had received a similar tip and it became a laugh fest.

It's a shame that they have received the concept of tipping without actually learning that a tip is earned, not automatic. If they're really THAT hard up for cash, they should have the government raise the ticket prices.
Also, how do they talk for an entire two hour trip? I'm assuming they're friends that row together daily, but they never let up once. Crazy.

Whenever I say we, I am referring to myself and a fine Aussie gal named Suzy who was also on the tour.

Oh, and they also have guys going around with digital cams that they use then rush back to the starting point. By the time you get back they've printed the photo onto paper and have laminated. I bought one after bringing down the price a bit. For 30 cents who wouldn't want a picture of themselves rowing vigorously up some Vietnamese river. HIGH HO! And looking as sharp as I do in my krama (cambodian scarf) ...well no need to brag.