Tuesday, March 03, 2009

synopsis (as I saw it)...hopefully you find the same points interesting

For those interested or considering a trip to the place, Morocco is pretty alright.

It is less conservative in an Islamic sense from the countries I visited last summer. Whether this is a question of proximity to the Islamic core, history of European tourists, a Berber mindset that remains powerfully distinct and individual, or something else I do not know.

What I do know is people (women...western women?) can wear bikinis, at the beaches, and not be ridiculously harassed (it wasn’t the right season but from what I saw and understand this is the case). More tamely, more local women choose to go bare-headed and a significant number (especially in new towns) are interested in following the fashion trends one finds in Europe or North America. I’m not saying there were Playboys in every newsstand and a certain conservatism remains, especially in rural areas, but the ladies working in the post office for instance were happily shaking men’s hands, a small but HUGE difference for me.

Day-to-day life is not as structured by religion. People attend mosque and pray, but not in the numbers of countries further east. Sunday tends to be the day off in Morocco and while Friday prayer is significant, it happens without quashing the rest of life. Generally things seem to tick over 7 days out of 7.

Perhaps because of the longer history of tourism I did not have the same kindness without reserve that I experienced in Jordan and Syria. While I was in Tanger there were two fellows, within 5 minutes of each other, who seemed to be in it to help, not sell, but aside from that my interactions with Moroccans had commercial threads worked throughout. (As a side note one of those two told me I looked strong in the head and I would do just fine in life.)

I did, however, tend to stick to a main tourist route, and my English friends who did some hiking in the countryside said they found at least one village, never before visited by tourists, to be extremely kind and hospitable without thinking of asking for money

The money side of things seems to be an inevitable reality when it comes to tourism and cultural transformation.

I should specify that I met many friendly people in Morocco (hostels, restaurants, shops etc.) and while some wore on me, the vast majority were kind and understanding, happy to sell but equally happy to smile and chat when a purchase was not forthcoming.

And in conclusion, a lot of people smoke hash there. I mean the locals are lighting up in their shops when business is slow, and in Chefchouan let’s just say there were a lot of glassy eyed Moroccans who aren’t planning on doing anything but being stoned and selling a little to tourists if the opportunity presents itself. If that’s your bag, go for it.

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