I write that last entry in installments because of its monstrous size.
Almost verbatim to what I wrote in my journal...I thought parts were quite good.
Today, was just about walking. I did silly things like walk all the way back to Taksim just to see if I could find Greenpeace canvassers who I had failed to photograph for some GP friends back in Canada, then I found some neat old buildings perhaps Genoese...late in Constantinople's history the enoese were able to get themselves eleveated trading rights in the region. Oh why can't I remember by Byzantium class????
Then I cruised pass teh spice bazaar...that had been the focal point for my day but last night I relaized it might be closed (Sunday's the day off in Turkey) and sure enough it was. No worry.
More wandering to fill the void. To the university, around the university, various famous mosques here and there that I can't be bothered to name or even stick my head inside (there's something wrong with my tenses there, I leave it to the grammaticians). Then I walked all the back to cembertas (or whatever) to decide if I wanted to take a Turkish bath. Basically a bath, but heated stones, steam and some cubby fellow scrubbing you down (and if you're really lucky massaging you). I had meant to do it in various places from Aqaba all the way north...thinking Aleppo would be ideal. Unfortunately the hammams (word for Turkish bath) in Aleppo were closed (the ones that looked nice at least) so it was left to Istanbul. Eventually I decided that I would forgo, 46 more lira to keep in my pocket and the knowledge I could do it next time (save up and get a full massage too!!!).
But while looking at the bath's pamphlet what did I see?????
Guess.
No.
Well it was aqueducts. I had gone up to the university in part to find an aqueduct which is located right behind it. I found it, shitty little thing (heh) but the pamphlet had another one further along. I hadn't gone far enough!!!! So I dragged my tired legs back again and found it. What a beauty. Nice and long, arcing over Attaturk Boulevard. The real question though was how to get up...I wandered its length and was fortunate enough to see some people scrambling up at a building. I followed their lead and had a pleasant stroll all the way along. And got to where I had seen some people sitting from teh ground and....if they weren't someking a big ol' lung.
I'm not going to provide more details than that, for the uninformed I'll just say a lung involves marijuana. Using some ill informed notions of pot smokers being the same the world over I feel I may have invited myself in for a little toke. Meh. Hopefully it isn't that hard to come by, and they looked decently blazed already. I think they wanted a bit of money, or maybe not. Whatever the case they got nothing, I wasn't actually very high and we all lept down at the other end of the structure.
An interesting experience, just wish I'd gotten more high. I mean if I'm going to do it anyway...
Now I sit in the Big Apple having frustrated a nut seller or two on the way home, my bags are packed and hopedully under 20 kg and tomorrow I have lots of time for my finishing touches and lunch and snacks before catching my airport bus at 1300 for a 1610 flight (check in starts at 1410).
I'll be one night in London before flying to Vancouver.
Blog entries between now and then? I don't know. Leave me alone.
Sunday, July 20, 2008
bazaar indeed
I'm hestitant to start this monstrosity of anentry on a keyboard with a finicky space bar, but if we areall patient it should work out alright.
Yesterday was a tremendously pleasant affair,all about shopping. To the Grand Bazaar we went armed with the name Altuu and a phone number. Altuu being Zoe's friend Şirin's pal from way back. We gave the number a call, but got no responseand so ventured into the crowded channels of commerce on our own, intent on not being fleeced and just looking around until we had a local guide on hand to save us from teh Oriental shopkeeps, full of cunning, guile and nefarious tricks to part us from our pieces of siler and gold.
In reality there was a sense of dread and nervousness within our jolly crew. We'd ventured through souqs and bazaars (even this one) before, but this time we all had gifts to buy and a desire to keep spending in check and such realities do not jive well with the narratives that surround an eastern bazaar we all carried in our respective heads.
Before we knew it though we were in a shop looking at belly dancing costumes (a favour for Kristin and her dancing grandma of course). "How much is this heavily sequined number? And this one with the tassles?" I don't think I intended to buy at that point, still holding out hope that Altuu would be on hand to guide us through the murky waters of the final transactions. Telling the shopkeep I needed to confirm how much my Canadian friend was willing to spend, we were given a card with a map (so we could find the place again) and were about to leave when I saw a costume that was the one for me.
Well, it would have been the one for me if I needed a belly dancing costume and since I know nothing of Kristin's grandma's taste in belly dancing paraphenalia, aside from the the necessity of bejeweled breasts, I figured my tastes would have to do the trick.
He started at 100 lira and quickly asked what I wanted to spend...the key to satisfied shopping in these conditions comes down to 2 main requirements in my mind.
1 - Kepp your smile on. It is a game you are playing after all. If you intend to buy, have a good time while doing it and I think the shopkeepers are more willing to make a smidgen less profit in return for the frivolity.
2 - When it comes to naming your own price, there is nothing wrong with being ridiculous. "How much do I want to spend? Well ideally you give it to me more free...maybe 10." And the game continues.
90? 25?, with lots of joshing around in between. I assured the vendor my very good Turkish friend told me to spend no more than 50 and that was for the top of the line stuff, surely this slightly lower cost one shouldn't be more than...30?
In the end I was at 35 and having a great time wehen Zoe countered his 55 with 40. With mock indignation I warned her against interfering but suddenly he was at 40 too and we were all drinking tea in celebration. We then chatted for a while about his work in the bazaar, former businesses, humanity. The normal stuff.
The love and people talk seemed to be a theme for the day. Apparently not many people were interested in my money, just as long as hearts were full of love and I was happy, well then they were happy as well. And I believe there was some truth in the talk. They wanted my money, yes, but if I was giving them proft, they were willing to forgo a little more money as long as I walked away with a smile. Or maybe I was ripped off royally. Who knows such things? But maintaining an attitude of finding a price you are happy with (whether it's really the best or not) seems to be a good rule of thumb to follow.
After that first experience we called Altuu again with renewed confidence and joy at the thought of shopping. This time we met up, bought a few knick knacks in his tiny shop before he began leading us hither and yon. We'd tell him what we needed to buy and he'd take us to an appropriate location, waiting with us sometimes or heading back to his shop if we'd be taking a while. Where possible we were taken toi the bazaar wholesalers in teh back corners off the main drag, hidden from most tourists and I assume Turks without contacts as well. It was just lovely being able to buy waterpipes and backgammon boards without a need to quibble over prices. One example, 40 lira for Eric's backgammon board that usually has a 180-200 starting price in the bazaar proper. Very nice.
We all wanted different things, but my carpet shopping was undeniably the big ONE stop. We were taken to a shop Altuu had a friend, unfortunately not in on the day. Interestingly, even he couldn't tell me rug prices, for some reason I had been thinking working in the bazaar grants one strange and mystical powers on accurate pricing, and he was actually unsure of where the store he was looking for was amidst the warren. After finding it though he told the salesman he wanted no commission and asked we be given a fair price; something the rug man told me repeatedly during the closing stages of the negotiation.
Once we were in there, out came the rugs. Wump, wump, wool, silk, cotton, weaves, looms, Uzbekistan, Turkey. ENough to make a head spin. I didn't start asking prices at the start, instead ffocusing on narrowing what lay before me to a manageable number. Going through, catching the maybes, tossing the nos and slowly working down, eventually asking the two words of destiny, "How much?"
ALl the carpets already had price tags affixed of course. Labels saying $1200 and EURO 800 making my eyes bleed just a little. These prices are there for when a guide brings a tour group through apparently and the guide's commission must be considered at such moments, or so I was told. My starting prices were given anywhere from 100-300 lira depending on size, weave, material, age etc. I chose slowly, and harvested , asking for opinions from Zoe and Eric, taking weight and bulk into account on top of everything else.
Once down to a few choices, my counter offers started coming in, seeing what combos would work best for me, but only working with 3-5 carpets at this point. Given the money involved and the fact Kristin wouldn't be reimbursing me on this purchase there was a titch more tension in the air. I offered...he responded...these 2? Maybe 3? Always looking for that perfect combo. And then I stared and stared and stared, tortured over the decision, if 2 which 2, or maybe all 3? Zoe and Eric sat in silence watching teh proceedings.
Apparently having a hard time with a decision can be a good thing. I was genuine and explained the gift situation and my personal (relative) poverty. I was torn and really thinking it over. But suddenly after much back and forth and extended silences he extended his hand...asking me to take it. "I don't know...what am I shaking on? I'm nervous..." A little truth in all my statements but still fully aware that the game was on. "200 for three" he said. SOLD!
Once again he told me of his desire to ensure my happiness, love in his heart, etc etc. Who knows how much was BS but the sale had been made and he could BS or lie or tell the truth about love or any other subject all he wanted.
In retrospect I think having the salesman tired may have helped my cause. Whether it was his daughter or some girlfriend keeping him up until 6 that morning I couldn't quite understand, but he told me he was tired. Perhaps also a little nicotine stressed. There is no smoking in the bazaar apparently, 50 lira fine if caught by the police. He snuck one in with my permission in the shop with the door closed. The AC kept the air plenty clean but the next time I may claim asthma then reqally have a hard time deciding as teh cravings kick in...just to see what happens.
After THAT monstrostity it was plates and scarves and this and that and round and round Zoe went...Eric and I being oh so patient.Before we knew it we'd been shopping for 6 hours and were trundling home exhausted, after thanking Altuu for his hard work and kindness of course.
Yesterday was a tremendously pleasant affair,all about shopping. To the Grand Bazaar we went armed with the name Altuu and a phone number. Altuu being Zoe's friend Şirin's pal from way back. We gave the number a call, but got no responseand so ventured into the crowded channels of commerce on our own, intent on not being fleeced and just looking around until we had a local guide on hand to save us from teh Oriental shopkeeps, full of cunning, guile and nefarious tricks to part us from our pieces of siler and gold.
In reality there was a sense of dread and nervousness within our jolly crew. We'd ventured through souqs and bazaars (even this one) before, but this time we all had gifts to buy and a desire to keep spending in check and such realities do not jive well with the narratives that surround an eastern bazaar we all carried in our respective heads.
Before we knew it though we were in a shop looking at belly dancing costumes (a favour for Kristin and her dancing grandma of course). "How much is this heavily sequined number? And this one with the tassles?" I don't think I intended to buy at that point, still holding out hope that Altuu would be on hand to guide us through the murky waters of the final transactions. Telling the shopkeep I needed to confirm how much my Canadian friend was willing to spend, we were given a card with a map (so we could find the place again) and were about to leave when I saw a costume that was the one for me.
Well, it would have been the one for me if I needed a belly dancing costume and since I know nothing of Kristin's grandma's taste in belly dancing paraphenalia, aside from the the necessity of bejeweled breasts, I figured my tastes would have to do the trick.
He started at 100 lira and quickly asked what I wanted to spend...the key to satisfied shopping in these conditions comes down to 2 main requirements in my mind.
1 - Kepp your smile on. It is a game you are playing after all. If you intend to buy, have a good time while doing it and I think the shopkeepers are more willing to make a smidgen less profit in return for the frivolity.
2 - When it comes to naming your own price, there is nothing wrong with being ridiculous. "How much do I want to spend? Well ideally you give it to me more free...maybe 10." And the game continues.
90? 25?, with lots of joshing around in between. I assured the vendor my very good Turkish friend told me to spend no more than 50 and that was for the top of the line stuff, surely this slightly lower cost one shouldn't be more than...30?
In the end I was at 35 and having a great time wehen Zoe countered his 55 with 40. With mock indignation I warned her against interfering but suddenly he was at 40 too and we were all drinking tea in celebration. We then chatted for a while about his work in the bazaar, former businesses, humanity. The normal stuff.
The love and people talk seemed to be a theme for the day. Apparently not many people were interested in my money, just as long as hearts were full of love and I was happy, well then they were happy as well. And I believe there was some truth in the talk. They wanted my money, yes, but if I was giving them proft, they were willing to forgo a little more money as long as I walked away with a smile. Or maybe I was ripped off royally. Who knows such things? But maintaining an attitude of finding a price you are happy with (whether it's really the best or not) seems to be a good rule of thumb to follow.
After that first experience we called Altuu again with renewed confidence and joy at the thought of shopping. This time we met up, bought a few knick knacks in his tiny shop before he began leading us hither and yon. We'd tell him what we needed to buy and he'd take us to an appropriate location, waiting with us sometimes or heading back to his shop if we'd be taking a while. Where possible we were taken toi the bazaar wholesalers in teh back corners off the main drag, hidden from most tourists and I assume Turks without contacts as well. It was just lovely being able to buy waterpipes and backgammon boards without a need to quibble over prices. One example, 40 lira for Eric's backgammon board that usually has a 180-200 starting price in the bazaar proper. Very nice.
We all wanted different things, but my carpet shopping was undeniably the big ONE stop. We were taken to a shop Altuu had a friend, unfortunately not in on the day. Interestingly, even he couldn't tell me rug prices, for some reason I had been thinking working in the bazaar grants one strange and mystical powers on accurate pricing, and he was actually unsure of where the store he was looking for was amidst the warren. After finding it though he told the salesman he wanted no commission and asked we be given a fair price; something the rug man told me repeatedly during the closing stages of the negotiation.
Once we were in there, out came the rugs. Wump, wump, wool, silk, cotton, weaves, looms, Uzbekistan, Turkey. ENough to make a head spin. I didn't start asking prices at the start, instead ffocusing on narrowing what lay before me to a manageable number. Going through, catching the maybes, tossing the nos and slowly working down, eventually asking the two words of destiny, "How much?"
ALl the carpets already had price tags affixed of course. Labels saying $1200 and EURO 800 making my eyes bleed just a little. These prices are there for when a guide brings a tour group through apparently and the guide's commission must be considered at such moments, or so I was told. My starting prices were given anywhere from 100-300 lira depending on size, weave, material, age etc. I chose slowly, and harvested , asking for opinions from Zoe and Eric, taking weight and bulk into account on top of everything else.
Once down to a few choices, my counter offers started coming in, seeing what combos would work best for me, but only working with 3-5 carpets at this point. Given the money involved and the fact Kristin wouldn't be reimbursing me on this purchase there was a titch more tension in the air. I offered...he responded...these 2? Maybe 3? Always looking for that perfect combo. And then I stared and stared and stared, tortured over the decision, if 2 which 2, or maybe all 3? Zoe and Eric sat in silence watching teh proceedings.
Apparently having a hard time with a decision can be a good thing. I was genuine and explained the gift situation and my personal (relative) poverty. I was torn and really thinking it over. But suddenly after much back and forth and extended silences he extended his hand...asking me to take it. "I don't know...what am I shaking on? I'm nervous..." A little truth in all my statements but still fully aware that the game was on. "200 for three" he said. SOLD!
Once again he told me of his desire to ensure my happiness, love in his heart, etc etc. Who knows how much was BS but the sale had been made and he could BS or lie or tell the truth about love or any other subject all he wanted.
In retrospect I think having the salesman tired may have helped my cause. Whether it was his daughter or some girlfriend keeping him up until 6 that morning I couldn't quite understand, but he told me he was tired. Perhaps also a little nicotine stressed. There is no smoking in the bazaar apparently, 50 lira fine if caught by the police. He snuck one in with my permission in the shop with the door closed. The AC kept the air plenty clean but the next time I may claim asthma then reqally have a hard time deciding as teh cravings kick in...just to see what happens.
After THAT monstrostity it was plates and scarves and this and that and round and round Zoe went...Eric and I being oh so patient.Before we knew it we'd been shopping for 6 hours and were trundling home exhausted, after thanking Altuu for his hard work and kindness of course.
Saturday, July 19, 2008
market
For all those people who check this blog religiously (HA!), this post is for you.
I'm going to the Grand Bazaar today. And to be honest I'm a bit nervous. I actually have to buy some things, but hopefully the wheeling and dealing won't get too intense.
Hopefully.
I'm going to the Grand Bazaar today. And to be honest I'm a bit nervous. I actually have to buy some things, but hopefully the wheeling and dealing won't get too intense.
Hopefully.
Friday, July 18, 2008
Amazıngly Istanbul
Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.
We have been busy. I don´t know how thıs post ıs goıng to go and flow...let us fınd out.
So yesterday ıt was all about Topkapı Palace, the long term home of Ottoman Sultans and a huge palace stuck on the poınt that has the Golden Horn on one sıde and the Bosphorus on the other.
Now thıs ıs one bıg palace. From kıtchens wıth lots of porcelaın to the treasury fılled wıth treasure, holy smokes. There were crazy robes and awesome swords and the fıfth bıggest dıamond ın the world (known as the Spoon Trader dıamond (or somethıng lıke that) because a guy found ıt ın a trash dump and got three spoons for ıt...oops) and the Topkapı dagger whıch had a movıe made aBOUT ıt ın the 1960s. I´ve never heard of the movıe but now I wıll need to watch ıt. It´s called Topkapı for those who want to watch ıt themselves.
So many thıngs there. We then paıd the extra 10 lıra to g ınto the harem...basıcally the domestıc quarters ın the olden days. No naked ladıes (or men). A lot of peple skıp ıt because of the extra cost but wıth my newfound passıon for colours and patterns I am super glad I went through.
So cool.
After Topkapı we wandered down to the eastern end of the Orıent Express (IStanbul´s traın statıon before amblıng and kıllıng some tıme and goıng over to the Taksım Square area. We had been there the nıght before but thıs tıme we were meetıng up wıth a frıend of Zoe´s who went to Queen´s but ıs Turkısh and ıs now lıvıng and workıng ın Istanbul. That was fuın to go out and grab a bıte to eat and a few beers wıth a person who could do the orderıng, fınd the rooftop locatıon etc etc. Very nıce.
Today was all about the Bosphorus cruıse. Many thıngs to see. Many pıctures to take. Much amazement to have at the confluence of Europe and Asıa. Very cool. At the far end we rode the bus back to check out Rumelı Hısarı (Fortress of Europe). It was a huge castle buılt ın conjunctıon wıth one on the Asıan sıde at the Bsphorus´ most narrow poınt. Mehmet the Conqueror managed t get ıt buılt ın 4 months (death threats or somethıng) but then took Constantınple shortly thereafter meanıng he no llonger needed to cut the cıty ff. Instead ıt became a glorıfıed toll booth on the rıver traffıc. Cool castle. Fun vısıt. And then ıt was back towards the centre of town to look at some stuff (a Genoese Tower...the Galata Tower) and then wanderıng lookıng for old Synagogues ın the area. We found them but none were open...apparently one has prayers tonıght (fRIDAY AND ALL). The Jewısh communıty that used to lıve ın that area has moved elsewhere so they are not really as actıve but ıt ıs neat to see how the synagogues sımply exıst wıthın the neıghbourhood makıng them very hard to fınd.
Yu have to look fr Stars of Davıd very closely.
Apparently the O on thıs keyboard ıs fınıcky.
Hrrrm...and then I had a fısh sandwıch and now I am on the ınternet and soon I wıll bathe and tomorrow we are gıng shoppıng ın the Grand Bazaar. The adventures never stop.
We have been busy. I don´t know how thıs post ıs goıng to go and flow...let us fınd out.
So yesterday ıt was all about Topkapı Palace, the long term home of Ottoman Sultans and a huge palace stuck on the poınt that has the Golden Horn on one sıde and the Bosphorus on the other.
Now thıs ıs one bıg palace. From kıtchens wıth lots of porcelaın to the treasury fılled wıth treasure, holy smokes. There were crazy robes and awesome swords and the fıfth bıggest dıamond ın the world (known as the Spoon Trader dıamond (or somethıng lıke that) because a guy found ıt ın a trash dump and got three spoons for ıt...oops) and the Topkapı dagger whıch had a movıe made aBOUT ıt ın the 1960s. I´ve never heard of the movıe but now I wıll need to watch ıt. It´s called Topkapı for those who want to watch ıt themselves.
So many thıngs there. We then paıd the extra 10 lıra to g ınto the harem...basıcally the domestıc quarters ın the olden days. No naked ladıes (or men). A lot of peple skıp ıt because of the extra cost but wıth my newfound passıon for colours and patterns I am super glad I went through.
So cool.
After Topkapı we wandered down to the eastern end of the Orıent Express (IStanbul´s traın statıon before amblıng and kıllıng some tıme and goıng over to the Taksım Square area. We had been there the nıght before but thıs tıme we were meetıng up wıth a frıend of Zoe´s who went to Queen´s but ıs Turkısh and ıs now lıvıng and workıng ın Istanbul. That was fuın to go out and grab a bıte to eat and a few beers wıth a person who could do the orderıng, fınd the rooftop locatıon etc etc. Very nıce.
Today was all about the Bosphorus cruıse. Many thıngs to see. Many pıctures to take. Much amazement to have at the confluence of Europe and Asıa. Very cool. At the far end we rode the bus back to check out Rumelı Hısarı (Fortress of Europe). It was a huge castle buılt ın conjunctıon wıth one on the Asıan sıde at the Bsphorus´ most narrow poınt. Mehmet the Conqueror managed t get ıt buılt ın 4 months (death threats or somethıng) but then took Constantınple shortly thereafter meanıng he no llonger needed to cut the cıty ff. Instead ıt became a glorıfıed toll booth on the rıver traffıc. Cool castle. Fun vısıt. And then ıt was back towards the centre of town to look at some stuff (a Genoese Tower...the Galata Tower) and then wanderıng lookıng for old Synagogues ın the area. We found them but none were open...apparently one has prayers tonıght (fRIDAY AND ALL). The Jewısh communıty that used to lıve ın that area has moved elsewhere so they are not really as actıve but ıt ıs neat to see how the synagogues sımply exıst wıthın the neıghbourhood makıng them very hard to fınd.
Yu have to look fr Stars of Davıd very closely.
Apparently the O on thıs keyboard ıs fınıcky.
Hrrrm...and then I had a fısh sandwıch and now I am on the ınternet and soon I wıll bathe and tomorrow we are gıng shoppıng ın the Grand Bazaar. The adventures never stop.
Thursday, July 17, 2008
Istanbul
After an overnıght bus rıde, an easıly found shuttle bus ınto town and an equally easıly found Bıg Apple Hostel, Istanbul seems lıke an alrıght cıty.
Free ınternet ın the lobby, comfy and clean beds ın the dorms and people aren,t horrıbly loud when shufflıng about ın the mornıng. All ın all a good place to spend a few days.
Yesterday ıt RAINED HARDCORE (poured). That was weırd, but I guess we´re close to Europe, a bıt fırther nrth and raın ın the summer ıs not totally unheard of. I guess. Stıll ıt threw us off more than a lıttle, lackıng basıc umbrella and poncho supplıes.
Stıll we took ın the Hagıa Sofıa and teh Blue Mosque as well as teh Basılıca Cıstern. All these thıngs were fantastıc. I expecıally enjoyed thumbıng Hagıa Sofıa...and yes I dıd thumb the church/mosque ın the most explıcıt way you can ımagıne. I nly found out afterwards one does thıs to ıncrease fertılıty...oh well. I wıll just be careful (as always) for the next few days. And when I say thumb there´s a pıllar wıth a hole and you stıck ın your thumb and rotate. I also enjoyed the gıant Islamıc medallıons arund the place and attempted to take a pıcture a la Bond ın from Russıa Wıth Love (Octopussy) whıch had a scene ın the hagıa...ıt turned out alrıght.
The cıstern was fun...get out of the raın by goıng underground ınto a water stoarge chamber...and had carp t look at and some upsıde down and sıdeways medusa heads at the base of sme f the pıllars. A lot f them were reused from other projects so they all had dıfferent appearances. And the whole mood was set wıth the lıghtıng and musıc, just super.
And the blue mosque was another mosque. Nıce place. Lovely decoratıons. And some fun ınfo pamphlets on Islam...and free whıch was good. But stıll just another mosque.
Today ıt´s Tokapı palace and maybe across to Asıa on the ferry. Last nıght we crossed the Golden Horn to Taksım and that was nıce, ıf a bıt tryıng when the restranteur kept tryıng to make varıous magıcal charges appear. I managed to lead everyone home safely (strange how new people don´t trust my sense of dırectıon late at nıght on darkened streets) and that was that.
Because I have ınternet at hand and free I feel you may be gettıng more rapıd updates. We shall see.
Free ınternet ın the lobby, comfy and clean beds ın the dorms and people aren,t horrıbly loud when shufflıng about ın the mornıng. All ın all a good place to spend a few days.
Yesterday ıt RAINED HARDCORE (poured). That was weırd, but I guess we´re close to Europe, a bıt fırther nrth and raın ın the summer ıs not totally unheard of. I guess. Stıll ıt threw us off more than a lıttle, lackıng basıc umbrella and poncho supplıes.
Stıll we took ın the Hagıa Sofıa and teh Blue Mosque as well as teh Basılıca Cıstern. All these thıngs were fantastıc. I expecıally enjoyed thumbıng Hagıa Sofıa...and yes I dıd thumb the church/mosque ın the most explıcıt way you can ımagıne. I nly found out afterwards one does thıs to ıncrease fertılıty...oh well. I wıll just be careful (as always) for the next few days. And when I say thumb there´s a pıllar wıth a hole and you stıck ın your thumb and rotate. I also enjoyed the gıant Islamıc medallıons arund the place and attempted to take a pıcture a la Bond ın from Russıa Wıth Love (Octopussy) whıch had a scene ın the hagıa...ıt turned out alrıght.
The cıstern was fun...get out of the raın by goıng underground ınto a water stoarge chamber...and had carp t look at and some upsıde down and sıdeways medusa heads at the base of sme f the pıllars. A lot f them were reused from other projects so they all had dıfferent appearances. And the whole mood was set wıth the lıghtıng and musıc, just super.
And the blue mosque was another mosque. Nıce place. Lovely decoratıons. And some fun ınfo pamphlets on Islam...and free whıch was good. But stıll just another mosque.
Today ıt´s Tokapı palace and maybe across to Asıa on the ferry. Last nıght we crossed the Golden Horn to Taksım and that was nıce, ıf a bıt tryıng when the restranteur kept tryıng to make varıous magıcal charges appear. I managed to lead everyone home safely (strange how new people don´t trust my sense of dırectıon late at nıght on darkened streets) and that was that.
Because I have ınternet at hand and free I feel you may be gettıng more rapıd updates. We shall see.
Tuesday, July 15, 2008
Goreme
There's meant to be an accent on the o or the e or something, but I'll leave it to you're very adept imaginations.
We have been here for three days, counting the one of our arrival and are leaving for Istanbul tonight. One more overnight bus and then it's planes the rest of the way. Exciting!
5 days in Istanbul. A few more than I planned but really, I don't think I'm allowed to complain about being stuck in Istanbul for an extra day or so. I'm sure I'll be able to find something to do.
But first Goreme. Awesome. Hot in the day, cool at night, the air is soooo clean and there are a tonne of hiking trails all over the place. There are lots of rock faces to scale and places to get yourself stuck in...think about making a jump top get yourself unstuck, then thinking better and going back the way you came to find a better way down. I'm writing this so I must have made some correct decisions today.
This is also the area where there are a lot of underground cities. I've seen excerpts of these but all the full blown, hardcore underground places are a bit further afield and I haven't gotten to them as a result. There are lots of pigeon roosts however, all built ay up on the cliff faces where you can ojnly stare and wonder why. It turns out, like with most aspects of life, it's all about the shit. Collect the pigeon shit, fertilize your fields and have a party featuring lots and lots of fruit.
JOYS!
I scrambled into one today, not too shitty anymore...I think you need to leave some food there for them to come by, but really cool and there was an old ladder in there to boot, just abandoned kind of feel to the place.
The canyon I was venturing down today also had some tunnels, but I believe they were more water worn than anything else. The canyon is all overgrown and thorny ( I should have rolled down my pant legs...yeesh) and the best way to avoid this is to enter the tunnels/water channels that follow the valley's edge. Sometime this means crawling and scrambling but really I'm going to throw these pants out in a few days so whatever.
Good adventure today.
Yesterday I went up Pigeon Valley to the next little town over, saw what they were calling a 'castle' which is really just a high point that at one time had some tunnels running through it, but now is just a weathered chuink of rock. Then I went down Love Valley eating apricots off trees the whole way (if I'd known before hand I wouldn't have bought the dried ones). I should mention that the table from which I bought the dried apricots had four words, one atop the others. I don't remember all the details, just that line 2 said something about viagra and line 4 was a comment on aphrodisiac...so apparently dried apricots and peanuts are the key. I bought some peanuts cooked in honey and sesame seeds that tasted like a treat I was obsessed with in Vietnam. Nummmy num nums. Aphrodisiac or not, delicious.
Then as I mentioned...Love Valley. No particular reason for it to be called this except for all the penis looking rock formations. Pretty good impressions. I guess that's what constitutes love around here, tall vertical shafts reaching for the sky.
Lovely.
But as i said Goreme is super...the air is great and if I actually would WRITE SOMETHING it might be a place I could set up shop in for some serious pondering. As is I'd just be wasting my time because I haven't written anything. Blech.
Hrrrm, I think that's all. I'm writing this on the comp in the lobby of the Flintstone Hotel where we stayed. We checked out at 10 but they let you use all the services (shower, pool, comp etc) all day until your bus leaves. Very nice.
In return I left them some filthy sock I wore hiking today and likely an ASUS Campsm 2002 (2003?) tshirt...I might bring it with me but I brought clothes with me to toss so I should start tossing more.
See you in Istanbul!
We have been here for three days, counting the one of our arrival and are leaving for Istanbul tonight. One more overnight bus and then it's planes the rest of the way. Exciting!
5 days in Istanbul. A few more than I planned but really, I don't think I'm allowed to complain about being stuck in Istanbul for an extra day or so. I'm sure I'll be able to find something to do.
But first Goreme. Awesome. Hot in the day, cool at night, the air is soooo clean and there are a tonne of hiking trails all over the place. There are lots of rock faces to scale and places to get yourself stuck in...think about making a jump top get yourself unstuck, then thinking better and going back the way you came to find a better way down. I'm writing this so I must have made some correct decisions today.
This is also the area where there are a lot of underground cities. I've seen excerpts of these but all the full blown, hardcore underground places are a bit further afield and I haven't gotten to them as a result. There are lots of pigeon roosts however, all built ay up on the cliff faces where you can ojnly stare and wonder why. It turns out, like with most aspects of life, it's all about the shit. Collect the pigeon shit, fertilize your fields and have a party featuring lots and lots of fruit.
JOYS!
I scrambled into one today, not too shitty anymore...I think you need to leave some food there for them to come by, but really cool and there was an old ladder in there to boot, just abandoned kind of feel to the place.
The canyon I was venturing down today also had some tunnels, but I believe they were more water worn than anything else. The canyon is all overgrown and thorny ( I should have rolled down my pant legs...yeesh) and the best way to avoid this is to enter the tunnels/water channels that follow the valley's edge. Sometime this means crawling and scrambling but really I'm going to throw these pants out in a few days so whatever.
Good adventure today.
Yesterday I went up Pigeon Valley to the next little town over, saw what they were calling a 'castle' which is really just a high point that at one time had some tunnels running through it, but now is just a weathered chuink of rock. Then I went down Love Valley eating apricots off trees the whole way (if I'd known before hand I wouldn't have bought the dried ones). I should mention that the table from which I bought the dried apricots had four words, one atop the others. I don't remember all the details, just that line 2 said something about viagra and line 4 was a comment on aphrodisiac...so apparently dried apricots and peanuts are the key. I bought some peanuts cooked in honey and sesame seeds that tasted like a treat I was obsessed with in Vietnam. Nummmy num nums. Aphrodisiac or not, delicious.
Then as I mentioned...Love Valley. No particular reason for it to be called this except for all the penis looking rock formations. Pretty good impressions. I guess that's what constitutes love around here, tall vertical shafts reaching for the sky.
Lovely.
But as i said Goreme is super...the air is great and if I actually would WRITE SOMETHING it might be a place I could set up shop in for some serious pondering. As is I'd just be wasting my time because I haven't written anything. Blech.
Hrrrm, I think that's all. I'm writing this on the comp in the lobby of the Flintstone Hotel where we stayed. We checked out at 10 but they let you use all the services (shower, pool, comp etc) all day until your bus leaves. Very nice.
In return I left them some filthy sock I wore hiking today and likely an ASUS Campsm 2002 (2003?) tshirt...I might bring it with me but I brought clothes with me to toss so I should start tossing more.
See you in Istanbul!
Saturday, July 12, 2008
T ıs for Turkey
Yes ındeedy. Also, strange keyboards so bear wıth me ıf you wouldn't mınd.
The cab to Antakya went well and rıght away we had a bus booked to Antalya...14 hours away and overnıght. For the fırst tıme ın my lıfe I slept exceedıngly well on saıd bus. Well I guess ıt was the fırst tıme ın my lıfe on that bus, but I slept better on ıt than any bus ın the hıstory of me.
We came to Antalya to go to Olympos, an amazıng beach place. I don't want toı call ıt town because ıt's really just a whole bunch of hotels and pensyıons. The place got ıts start wıth ,treehouses but the place we stayed at, I feel one of the more upperend dealıes on the beachc had all sorts of cabıns and dorms and hotel typed structures. The last remaınıng treehouses were actually buılt ın the trees ımmedıately over the dınıng area, and I can't ımagıne they,re very relaxıng.
The hotel ıs bascıally an excuse to wander down the dırt path,through the ancıent cıty of Olympus and out to the beach. Holy crow. Now that's a nıce beach. I trıed to spend all my tıme ın the shade, except when out swımmıng of course, but I somehow stıll got a WICKED SUnburn everywhere. Don't even ask me. The next day Iput on sunscreen and found better shade. I don,t thınk I hAD any extra burnıng.
Huzzah.
Apparently Medıterranean aır also makes me very very tıred because I was sleepıng constantly ın OLympus. On the beach ın the cabın etc. We even went on a lıttle trıp last nıght and I was strugglıng to stay awake ın the bus.
The trıp was to Chımera...a spot where fıre just kınd of emerges from the rocks. It was a funny lıttle trıp where everyone hıkes up a mountaın path ın the dark to look at flames. It ıs very lovely and peaceful and an amusıng lıttle trıp. I only wısh I had remembered hotdogs.
Rıght now I'm ın the Antalya otogar {bus statıon} kıllıng tıme and contemplatıng the future.
Zoe ıs goıng to Goreme at 10 tonıght (another opvernıght bus) and I'm thınkıng. I'm burned out on the whole trvel thıng and wıth a few clıcks and a few extra dollars/pounds/euros I could head to Istanbul, spend a few days there then go vısıt Mary Marg ın Edınburgh. It appears, however, that she may not be ın Edınburgh, throwıng a wrench ınto those carefully laıd out plans. Decısıons...decısıons.
So far the coast lıne of Turkey ıs very cottagey...pıne trees and towns/cıtıes all buılt up for holıdayers. It all feels very Muskoka etc etc. Nıce country though. It's funny how relaxed one becomes when the buses are regular and clean and have regular schedules and companıes attached to them. You pay for ıt of course, travellıng ıs much more expensıve,but ıt's good. I thınk.
I'm ready to be done travellıng already and ıt has only been a month and a bıt. I must be gettıng old.
The cab to Antakya went well and rıght away we had a bus booked to Antalya...14 hours away and overnıght. For the fırst tıme ın my lıfe I slept exceedıngly well on saıd bus. Well I guess ıt was the fırst tıme ın my lıfe on that bus, but I slept better on ıt than any bus ın the hıstory of me.
We came to Antalya to go to Olympos, an amazıng beach place. I don't want toı call ıt town because ıt's really just a whole bunch of hotels and pensyıons. The place got ıts start wıth ,treehouses but the place we stayed at, I feel one of the more upperend dealıes on the beachc had all sorts of cabıns and dorms and hotel typed structures. The last remaınıng treehouses were actually buılt ın the trees ımmedıately over the dınıng area, and I can't ımagıne they,re very relaxıng.
The hotel ıs bascıally an excuse to wander down the dırt path,through the ancıent cıty of Olympus and out to the beach. Holy crow. Now that's a nıce beach. I trıed to spend all my tıme ın the shade, except when out swımmıng of course, but I somehow stıll got a WICKED SUnburn everywhere. Don't even ask me. The next day Iput on sunscreen and found better shade. I don,t thınk I hAD any extra burnıng.
Huzzah.
Apparently Medıterranean aır also makes me very very tıred because I was sleepıng constantly ın OLympus. On the beach ın the cabın etc. We even went on a lıttle trıp last nıght and I was strugglıng to stay awake ın the bus.
The trıp was to Chımera...a spot where fıre just kınd of emerges from the rocks. It was a funny lıttle trıp where everyone hıkes up a mountaın path ın the dark to look at flames. It ıs very lovely and peaceful and an amusıng lıttle trıp. I only wısh I had remembered hotdogs.
Rıght now I'm ın the Antalya otogar {bus statıon} kıllıng tıme and contemplatıng the future.
Zoe ıs goıng to Goreme at 10 tonıght (another opvernıght bus) and I'm thınkıng. I'm burned out on the whole trvel thıng and wıth a few clıcks and a few extra dollars/pounds/euros I could head to Istanbul, spend a few days there then go vısıt Mary Marg ın Edınburgh. It appears, however, that she may not be ın Edınburgh, throwıng a wrench ınto those carefully laıd out plans. Decısıons...decısıons.
So far the coast lıne of Turkey ıs very cottagey...pıne trees and towns/cıtıes all buılt up for holıdayers. It all feels very Muskoka etc etc. Nıce country though. It's funny how relaxed one becomes when the buses are regular and clean and have regular schedules and companıes attached to them. You pay for ıt of course, travellıng ıs much more expensıve,but ıt's good. I thınk.
I'm ready to be done travellıng already and ıt has only been a month and a bıt. I must be gettıng old.
Tuesday, July 08, 2008
workers in Syria
At the Citadel yesterday I sat down in some shade and when I stood up and climbed the a high point I couldn't find Zoe. She'd ended up outside the citadel, and after waiting for a bit went shopping. I headed back to the hotel, but on my way decided I needed to take a picture of a sewing machine.
They were Jaki brand, and this amused me. I thought I'd take a picture for my friend of similar spelling, but given there was a gent behind the desk I asked permission. Inevitably some other fellow appeared who wanted to speak English...the point of this story is not another "and then I had tea" although there was tea. So let's get on with it.
A lot of people, Syrians and Jordanians, are interested in me because I'm Canadian and they want work. The fellow yesterday was attending a language institute so he could learn English and get to Canada. He was asking all sorts of questions on the state of the garment industry in Canada. He is a sewing machine technician and that was the obvious line for work
(later they were asking about his friends curtain and furniture cover fabric samples and where they might be sold in Canada...why do they expect me to know these things?)
I did my best to give what I knew and also told him his best bet for work or getting to Canada was to write the Canadian embassy and see what's up. He seemed to think I would be the key to him getting to Canada somehow...maybe as a sponsor? Although I'm not sure how a man of my particular resources would be able to help. Especially if I'm in France.
The interesting thing is the desire to work. There is not much work here. There is a reason so many people seem to be engaged in retail of various kinds...it's easy to get into and if you sell a few pieces a day you can even make a living at it. Not everyone has asked me how to get to Canada to work, but a few have and even those that haven't sometimes have recently returned from overseas work.
And now I have a distinct feeling I was going somewhere significant;y more interesting with this and I've just totally forgotten where it was. Heh. That's what I get for listening to music while I write. Thus is life.
Workers in Syria. Who knew. Hey Fort MacMurray, here's your next direct flight location...just don't hire any Bedouin.
They were Jaki brand, and this amused me. I thought I'd take a picture for my friend of similar spelling, but given there was a gent behind the desk I asked permission. Inevitably some other fellow appeared who wanted to speak English...the point of this story is not another "and then I had tea" although there was tea. So let's get on with it.
A lot of people, Syrians and Jordanians, are interested in me because I'm Canadian and they want work. The fellow yesterday was attending a language institute so he could learn English and get to Canada. He was asking all sorts of questions on the state of the garment industry in Canada. He is a sewing machine technician and that was the obvious line for work
(later they were asking about his friends curtain and furniture cover fabric samples and where they might be sold in Canada...why do they expect me to know these things?)
I did my best to give what I knew and also told him his best bet for work or getting to Canada was to write the Canadian embassy and see what's up. He seemed to think I would be the key to him getting to Canada somehow...maybe as a sponsor? Although I'm not sure how a man of my particular resources would be able to help. Especially if I'm in France.
The interesting thing is the desire to work. There is not much work here. There is a reason so many people seem to be engaged in retail of various kinds...it's easy to get into and if you sell a few pieces a day you can even make a living at it. Not everyone has asked me how to get to Canada to work, but a few have and even those that haven't sometimes have recently returned from overseas work.
And now I have a distinct feeling I was going somewhere significant;y more interesting with this and I've just totally forgotten where it was. Heh. That's what I get for listening to music while I write. Thus is life.
Workers in Syria. Who knew. Hey Fort MacMurray, here's your next direct flight location...just don't hire any Bedouin.
Aleppo
So here I am in Aleppo. A nice city, but one I have a hard time getting a firm grasp on.
Maybe that's because I'm coming out of the sick (feeling better, doing solid things, regaining an appetite), and tired (sleeping a lot the last few days, looking forward to some more again tonight), or who knows. It's reputedly a more conservative city, but that doesn't affect me too much...fewer shoulders to look at I suppose. I guess the streets are quite entwined??? Ah, heck I don't know. Maybe if I'd had time and energy to wander more I would have enjoyed the place a bit more, and I certainly didn't dislike it so there's nothing to complain about.
So Aleppo. It is the land of the Souq, lots and lots of them, both the tourist kind and the domestic home wares and toothpaste kind. Really you can't go wrong. These souqs are narrower and lower than the ones in Damascus so they have a slightly more authentic feel. I even bought something in one today. I didn't bargain very hard, but what are you going to do? I figured I had to get SOMETHING in one.
The other main site in town, aside from wandering various quarters is the citadel. A human made mound with lots of fortifications (in various states of repair) on top. Wicked views, some nice dark holes and an amazingly restored throne room. The things you can do with wood and a bit of glaze.
Aside from that...?
Nice enough, but we're moving on shortly. Turkey to be more specific, tomorrow at noon, and after arriving in Antakya we're going to try and find an overnight bus to places elsewhere. Distances are bigger (much bigger) in Turkey so we figure we may as well attempt some overnighters on what are reputedly tremendously comfortable buses. We shall see. We've pegged out two places to visit before Istanbul, Olympos on the Mediterranean coast and Goreme in Cappadocia. The latter is the place with those cool stone conical deals and hotels with caves for rooms. Hey hey hey!
I anticipate full internet access in what are two very touristy/backpacker locales, but you never know, so be a little patient.
Maybe that's because I'm coming out of the sick (feeling better, doing solid things, regaining an appetite), and tired (sleeping a lot the last few days, looking forward to some more again tonight), or who knows. It's reputedly a more conservative city, but that doesn't affect me too much...fewer shoulders to look at I suppose. I guess the streets are quite entwined??? Ah, heck I don't know. Maybe if I'd had time and energy to wander more I would have enjoyed the place a bit more, and I certainly didn't dislike it so there's nothing to complain about.
So Aleppo. It is the land of the Souq, lots and lots of them, both the tourist kind and the domestic home wares and toothpaste kind. Really you can't go wrong. These souqs are narrower and lower than the ones in Damascus so they have a slightly more authentic feel. I even bought something in one today. I didn't bargain very hard, but what are you going to do? I figured I had to get SOMETHING in one.
The other main site in town, aside from wandering various quarters is the citadel. A human made mound with lots of fortifications (in various states of repair) on top. Wicked views, some nice dark holes and an amazingly restored throne room. The things you can do with wood and a bit of glaze.
Aside from that...?
Nice enough, but we're moving on shortly. Turkey to be more specific, tomorrow at noon, and after arriving in Antakya we're going to try and find an overnight bus to places elsewhere. Distances are bigger (much bigger) in Turkey so we figure we may as well attempt some overnighters on what are reputedly tremendously comfortable buses. We shall see. We've pegged out two places to visit before Istanbul, Olympos on the Mediterranean coast and Goreme in Cappadocia. The latter is the place with those cool stone conical deals and hotels with caves for rooms. Hey hey hey!
I anticipate full internet access in what are two very touristy/backpacker locales, but you never know, so be a little patient.
Saturday, July 05, 2008
next
Tomorrow to Aleppo then onto Turkey on Wednesday.
Not sure exactly where we're goign in Turkey but we're aiming to be in Istanbul proper for only 4 or 5 days so we have 6 or 7 days to visit some other Turkish locales. We shall see how it goes.
Not sure exactly where we're goign in Turkey but we're aiming to be in Istanbul proper for only 4 or 5 days so we have 6 or 7 days to visit some other Turkish locales. We shall see how it goes.
Qa'laat Salah al-Din
I'm sure I've spelled Saladin's name about 23 different ways, but whatever, you get the idea.
Today we visited his castle!
It is a pretty sweet place. Set above a pine forest that smells just like Muskoka it is just lovely. It is in two levels with the upper level being an entire castle and teh lower lever just having a wall around it. I suppose in the past there might have been buildings there, but it might also have been a really nice orchard or something.
Also the road runs past the castle on the north side, and although the current entrance is up some stairs on the east side, I think the entrance used to be over the modern road. I say this because the road is in a 30 foot wide chasm and at one end there is a pillar of rock that apparently used to support some sort of draw bridge. I'm sure I'm doing a terrible job describing this, but believe me when I say it's pretty cool.
The castle has a very different feel than a lot of the other crusader castles we've visited. I'm not sure if this is because it was built by Saladin or what the deal is, but it was a nice place.
Once agian, unfrotunately, I had trouble with the ISIC card. Maybe a reminder was just sent out, but I'm having to pay 150 pounds now when it's 10 as a student. Alas. It was funny today. I try to be aghast that they're not accepting my student card although I fully understand that the government has made a decisions and I don't have much to argue about.
"But I'm a sutdent, I pay tutitions and everything"
"You're in Syria now and here it's 26."
"Really?"
WHo knows how well he understood embittered sarcasm. Good times.
Today we visited his castle!
It is a pretty sweet place. Set above a pine forest that smells just like Muskoka it is just lovely. It is in two levels with the upper level being an entire castle and teh lower lever just having a wall around it. I suppose in the past there might have been buildings there, but it might also have been a really nice orchard or something.
Also the road runs past the castle on the north side, and although the current entrance is up some stairs on the east side, I think the entrance used to be over the modern road. I say this because the road is in a 30 foot wide chasm and at one end there is a pillar of rock that apparently used to support some sort of draw bridge. I'm sure I'm doing a terrible job describing this, but believe me when I say it's pretty cool.
The castle has a very different feel than a lot of the other crusader castles we've visited. I'm not sure if this is because it was built by Saladin or what the deal is, but it was a nice place.
Once agian, unfrotunately, I had trouble with the ISIC card. Maybe a reminder was just sent out, but I'm having to pay 150 pounds now when it's 10 as a student. Alas. It was funny today. I try to be aghast that they're not accepting my student card although I fully understand that the government has made a decisions and I don't have much to argue about.
"But I'm a sutdent, I pay tutitions and everything"
"You're in Syria now and here it's 26."
"Really?"
WHo knows how well he understood embittered sarcasm. Good times.
Where am I now?
I don't even know...
Actually it's a city called Lattakia, on the Mediterranean Sea in the northwest of Syria. It's an interesting city, described as more laid back than the rest of the country and I can only agree. The non head scarfed ladies outnumber those with tetes covered and I've even seen some shoulders here. Mind blowing shit I know.
We arrived here and promptly bumped into Pierre again. I think I've emntioned him, but he's a New Brunswicker who we met in Damascus and saw again in Hama. He went to Aleppo, but on;y spent a day there. We've also being hanging out with Nick, a Swede of Greek and Polish descent.
Yesterday we decided to have a beach day, so we hopped on a public bus and rode north then wandered doent a street until we reached teh "beach". The beach was nice, I guess, except it was just rock, and the garbage (that's to be expected) but the best part was the Zoe show.
Well I guess we were all pretty popular, but Zoe was hell bent on sun bathing in her bikini, so she did. The result was clusters of men and plenty of stairs from teh girls too. Nick and Pierre were dragged off to someone's house for some watermelon and Zoe and I stayed on the beach hanging out. Lots of people doing the ol' "I'm going to take a picture of you right here" while carefully aiming over the shoulder and other fun. And for whatever reason we even had a baby show up. People love handing the baby off to Zoe so they can take some pics.
WHo knows.
Pierre and Nick returned declaring themselves not having a relaxed beach day (apparent;y being tugged and poked and "come here" and "look at this" inhibits relaxation). So we took off, ambling back up the road towards the mainstreet taht would take us back to Lattakia...but wait.Le Meridien, a nice hotel was on the way so we decided t stop off there. Of course they have ridiculous prices if you want to use their pool and beach, so it's a good thing we were guests at the hotel. Room 351.
So we ended up on a real sandy beach with cold showers and a pool. Very nice.
Unfortunately when we returned I was really starting to feel whatever I was feeling. I had had a sore throat a few days before but my brain decided to feel swollen and my lower back sore and my legs really fatigued. WHo knows. If Anyone knows what said symptoms suggest, do tell, but I am feeling better today so not too many worries.
Actually it's a city called Lattakia, on the Mediterranean Sea in the northwest of Syria. It's an interesting city, described as more laid back than the rest of the country and I can only agree. The non head scarfed ladies outnumber those with tetes covered and I've even seen some shoulders here. Mind blowing shit I know.
We arrived here and promptly bumped into Pierre again. I think I've emntioned him, but he's a New Brunswicker who we met in Damascus and saw again in Hama. He went to Aleppo, but on;y spent a day there. We've also being hanging out with Nick, a Swede of Greek and Polish descent.
Yesterday we decided to have a beach day, so we hopped on a public bus and rode north then wandered doent a street until we reached teh "beach". The beach was nice, I guess, except it was just rock, and the garbage (that's to be expected) but the best part was the Zoe show.
Well I guess we were all pretty popular, but Zoe was hell bent on sun bathing in her bikini, so she did. The result was clusters of men and plenty of stairs from teh girls too. Nick and Pierre were dragged off to someone's house for some watermelon and Zoe and I stayed on the beach hanging out. Lots of people doing the ol' "I'm going to take a picture of you right here" while carefully aiming over the shoulder and other fun. And for whatever reason we even had a baby show up. People love handing the baby off to Zoe so they can take some pics.
WHo knows.
Pierre and Nick returned declaring themselves not having a relaxed beach day (apparent;y being tugged and poked and "come here" and "look at this" inhibits relaxation). So we took off, ambling back up the road towards the mainstreet taht would take us back to Lattakia...but wait.Le Meridien, a nice hotel was on the way so we decided t stop off there. Of course they have ridiculous prices if you want to use their pool and beach, so it's a good thing we were guests at the hotel. Room 351.
So we ended up on a real sandy beach with cold showers and a pool. Very nice.
Unfortunately when we returned I was really starting to feel whatever I was feeling. I had had a sore throat a few days before but my brain decided to feel swollen and my lower back sore and my legs really fatigued. WHo knows. If Anyone knows what said symptoms suggest, do tell, but I am feeling better today so not too many worries.
men in suits
I forgot to mention.
The ministry of the Interior in Damascus where we had to get our pass to visit the Golan Heights isin the embassy area, or at least one of them. To get to the place we cruised by the Dutch embassy, the Danish (or what's left of it was just ont he next road) and tehn best of all teh US embassy which was facing the Chinese and Iraqis. Heh.
There were two types of people hanging out in this area. The first type were miltary types. Machine guns and ammo pouches around there tummies, but no uniforms. There are lots of uniformed military types in Syria but wherever shit could get real (embassies, Golan Heights, etc). They get to wear jeans and a t-shirt, or a collared shirt, really it seems as long as they're presetable they're acceptable.
The other type of people hanging out in the area are gentlemen in suits. No weapons apparent, just them in their suits and sunglasses. Hanging out, looking around...maybe I can take a quick picture? Don't worry I didn't bother trying.
The ministry of the Interior in Damascus where we had to get our pass to visit the Golan Heights isin the embassy area, or at least one of them. To get to the place we cruised by the Dutch embassy, the Danish (or what's left of it was just ont he next road) and tehn best of all teh US embassy which was facing the Chinese and Iraqis. Heh.
There were two types of people hanging out in this area. The first type were miltary types. Machine guns and ammo pouches around there tummies, but no uniforms. There are lots of uniformed military types in Syria but wherever shit could get real (embassies, Golan Heights, etc). They get to wear jeans and a t-shirt, or a collared shirt, really it seems as long as they're presetable they're acceptable.
The other type of people hanging out in the area are gentlemen in suits. No weapons apparent, just them in their suits and sunglasses. Hanging out, looking around...maybe I can take a quick picture? Don't worry I didn't bother trying.
I should mention...
I've had a wicked brain destroying cold/sickness for a few days. Well actually just yesterday and into today really. I'm getting over it but am kind of drained and if my writing is shit, that's why.
If all my writing is shit...well I don't know what to tell you.
If all my writing is shit...well I don't know what to tell you.
paying for the bus
We do a lot of our travelling in small vans that hold about 15 people including the driver.
In general they hang around and leave when full, dropping people off and picking people up as space and neccessity dictates. The fun part comes in the fare.
People pay what the fare is but when change needs to be made the passengers generally do a lot of the math and change making as the moneys are passed up from the back. When change can't be made teh driver will do it, and generally one of the people in the row immediately behind will be responsible for passing teh money up and saying how many people it is for.
Not THAT exciting I guess. Except when it's me and I get to use my stupendously awesome Arabic number abilities.
Stupendously.
In general they hang around and leave when full, dropping people off and picking people up as space and neccessity dictates. The fun part comes in the fare.
People pay what the fare is but when change needs to be made the passengers generally do a lot of the math and change making as the moneys are passed up from the back. When change can't be made teh driver will do it, and generally one of the people in the row immediately behind will be responsible for passing teh money up and saying how many people it is for.
Not THAT exciting I guess. Except when it's me and I get to use my stupendously awesome Arabic number abilities.
Stupendously.
Wednesday, July 02, 2008
Mongols
Reading variuous museum displays one always notices Crusader castles were attacked and besieged by Salh-ha Din. Some he took, some just quit, for instance Krak de Chevaliers was taken but only because the Latin Kingdoms were at an end, not because they were in danger of falling. Others he showed up and then walked away knowing they'd never be taken.
One also reads the histories of the castles. Built by crusdaers, augmented by muslim owners etc, but then...for all the polemics attached to the crusades, the Christians vs the Muslims etc. in this area a lot of the fortresses also include a little section on the Mongols.
There is never any 'the Mongols tried to take it and failed'...they simply didn't. I don't know why this struck me as so interesting. I suppose in part because it is mildly amusing that THAT part of the history gets forgotten, but also because the Mongols are so bad-assed. I mean look at a map of the empire at its fullest extent and have your mind blown. And apparently 6-12% (or something) of all the population in those areas can trace some ancestry to Genghis himself. Good to be the king. (I very easily could have mis-remembered some of these facts and figures, but intersting to\ be sure).
One also reads the histories of the castles. Built by crusdaers, augmented by muslim owners etc, but then...for all the polemics attached to the crusades, the Christians vs the Muslims etc. in this area a lot of the fortresses also include a little section on the Mongols.
There is never any 'the Mongols tried to take it and failed'...they simply didn't. I don't know why this struck me as so interesting. I suppose in part because it is mildly amusing that THAT part of the history gets forgotten, but also because the Mongols are so bad-assed. I mean look at a map of the empire at its fullest extent and have your mind blown. And apparently 6-12% (or something) of all the population in those areas can trace some ancestry to Genghis himself. Good to be the king. (I very easily could have mis-remembered some of these facts and figures, but intersting to\ be sure).
Krak de Chevaliers
Mercy I've been at this internet console a while...whatever, this story must be told.
Yesterday I saw it. The castle of castles. TE Lawerence said something along the lines of every schoolboys dreams of castles are based around this one, and I would tend to agree.
Like most castles K d C (or Qa'laat al Hosn) sits atop a hill looking amazing. I can't be bothered to write in all the details but it has crazy tunnels and ramps and rooms and a giant oven and interior well and walls and a moat and towers and ramparts and more of all the above and more awesome still.
Look at some pictures I guess. Such a wicked place. And all the better because we sorted our way there using public transit. Word to anyone who ever wants to travel here using publuic transit. Get it done as early as possible. Buses don't dry up but there are certainly far more of them first thing in the morning than when we were returning around 330.
Krak de Chevaliers...yes.
Yesterday I saw it. The castle of castles. TE Lawerence said something along the lines of every schoolboys dreams of castles are based around this one, and I would tend to agree.
Like most castles K d C (or Qa'laat al Hosn) sits atop a hill looking amazing. I can't be bothered to write in all the details but it has crazy tunnels and ramps and rooms and a giant oven and interior well and walls and a moat and towers and ramparts and more of all the above and more awesome still.
Look at some pictures I guess. Such a wicked place. And all the better because we sorted our way there using public transit. Word to anyone who ever wants to travel here using publuic transit. Get it done as early as possible. Buses don't dry up but there are certainly far more of them first thing in the morning than when we were returning around 330.
Krak de Chevaliers...yes.
Hama 2 (at the old mill)
So we parted ways with the repairman...oops I meant to mention, he must have other workers because these wheels are 4-10m in diameter (different sizes) and not exactly manageable for one dude.
Parted ways and walked across a stone causeway thing. Part of the structures they have set up to control water flows. For you see it is not just the waterwheels there are also a few flour mills around. Out of commission mid you. How do I know this?
Well, aross the causeway a fellow, well tanned and with a swimmer's body and no shirt was hanging out outside one of the mills. And he invited us in. SUre! Again through the wonders opf communication, his home was an old mill, complete with grinding stones from Denmark, France etc, and built into a building initially built by the Romans. Through a tiny hole in the floor we went beneath to inspect the metal waterwheels down there. These ones were just for power, no need to move water and in earlier times, before rust and decay had set in they were connected to vertical driveshafts and in turn to the grinding wheels above. For some reason he really wanted to show us the wheels turned and he and a friend tried to turn a couple of the metal hulks (only about 1.5-2m in diameter) but they only succeeded in breaking off a bunch of chunks.
We then returned upstairs and chatted for a few hours over some delicious lemon tea...I think just lemon tree leaves, but who knows. What did we talk about? I don't really know. His friend was saying something about haviong one kid who he hoped, starting at the age of 5 would begin learning English. Then some other guy showed up who had been beaten up a few days before by 10 cokeheads (the sniffing gesture is what I based that supposition on). Good times all around.
All I could say was majnoon (crazy), which I did, to great hilarity. But then we begged our goodbyes and were off. But we weren't quite. The 'dude' as I've taken to calling him showed us where he slept...a square cement room with pillows, and his 'garage' filled with...junk. Both places he insisted we take pictures of because that's what tourist do I guess. I think he just really enjoyed having us over and didn't want us to leave. He'd offered food for the next day but we had to turn him down.
These visits can be draining but they're always fun and they're a great way to kill some time.
Also, they have madew me realize that without trying too hard I've picked up some Arabic and can communicate on a very basic level. If I did that without trying imagine if I put my mind to it! Hopefully such things will be quickly realized in France.
Parted ways and walked across a stone causeway thing. Part of the structures they have set up to control water flows. For you see it is not just the waterwheels there are also a few flour mills around. Out of commission mid you. How do I know this?
Well, aross the causeway a fellow, well tanned and with a swimmer's body and no shirt was hanging out outside one of the mills. And he invited us in. SUre! Again through the wonders opf communication, his home was an old mill, complete with grinding stones from Denmark, France etc, and built into a building initially built by the Romans. Through a tiny hole in the floor we went beneath to inspect the metal waterwheels down there. These ones were just for power, no need to move water and in earlier times, before rust and decay had set in they were connected to vertical driveshafts and in turn to the grinding wheels above. For some reason he really wanted to show us the wheels turned and he and a friend tried to turn a couple of the metal hulks (only about 1.5-2m in diameter) but they only succeeded in breaking off a bunch of chunks.
We then returned upstairs and chatted for a few hours over some delicious lemon tea...I think just lemon tree leaves, but who knows. What did we talk about? I don't really know. His friend was saying something about haviong one kid who he hoped, starting at the age of 5 would begin learning English. Then some other guy showed up who had been beaten up a few days before by 10 cokeheads (the sniffing gesture is what I based that supposition on). Good times all around.
All I could say was majnoon (crazy), which I did, to great hilarity. But then we begged our goodbyes and were off. But we weren't quite. The 'dude' as I've taken to calling him showed us where he slept...a square cement room with pillows, and his 'garage' filled with...junk. Both places he insisted we take pictures of because that's what tourist do I guess. I think he just really enjoyed having us over and didn't want us to leave. He'd offered food for the next day but we had to turn him down.
These visits can be draining but they're always fun and they're a great way to kill some time.
Also, they have madew me realize that without trying too hard I've picked up some Arabic and can communicate on a very basic level. If I did that without trying imagine if I put my mind to it! Hopefully such things will be quickly realized in France.
Hama
As mentioned, we are now in Hama, successfully negotiating the city bus and Pullman bus station to get here.
Even managed to walk from the Hama station to the hotel. Maps are good, but when you're pack is on your back you just want to arrive.
As mentioned this is a city of norias and the river is a nice place to walk along looking for the beasts. The first day in we did just that and guess what??? Two people had us in for tea. SUrprise!
The first fellow was a workman, taking advatage of the season to replace some of the older parts in the biggest noria in town. He had taken off all the scoopy fins and was slowly fashioning the new parts out of some large blocks he had on hand. I'm not sure if he had people working with him (he must) but he said it would take about 20-25 days to finish the job...I think.
We tried to turn down his offer of tea...we wonder why we bother sometimes because they don't seem to ever take no as an answer. We were joined at the tea table by a Russian. He was sitting there with his nose in a phrasebook saying he way trying to speak Arabic. I have never thought about it before, but as he sat there, saying nothing and more importantly communiucating nothing I realized that was the worst way to talk to someone. If you're trying to have a conversation. I know I have the benefit of a few weeks and words but I'd rather smile and hand talk it up than do that. Event he workman seemed to think the Russian guy was a bit cuckoo. Who knows what he was looking for but what was he going to do? Ask when the next bus left then smile as he didn't understand the response.
I also want to mention again, when I talk to people and then remember the convo I always remember what was said as a known commodity. The actual conversations are more hand gestures and nods and smiles than anything approaching understood words, but I do feel a level of understanding. Both because I can pick out a few words and because there are certain things that people tend to ask in situations, tea? married? children? want some food? etc.
Even managed to walk from the Hama station to the hotel. Maps are good, but when you're pack is on your back you just want to arrive.
As mentioned this is a city of norias and the river is a nice place to walk along looking for the beasts. The first day in we did just that and guess what??? Two people had us in for tea. SUrprise!
The first fellow was a workman, taking advatage of the season to replace some of the older parts in the biggest noria in town. He had taken off all the scoopy fins and was slowly fashioning the new parts out of some large blocks he had on hand. I'm not sure if he had people working with him (he must) but he said it would take about 20-25 days to finish the job...I think.
We tried to turn down his offer of tea...we wonder why we bother sometimes because they don't seem to ever take no as an answer. We were joined at the tea table by a Russian. He was sitting there with his nose in a phrasebook saying he way trying to speak Arabic. I have never thought about it before, but as he sat there, saying nothing and more importantly communiucating nothing I realized that was the worst way to talk to someone. If you're trying to have a conversation. I know I have the benefit of a few weeks and words but I'd rather smile and hand talk it up than do that. Event he workman seemed to think the Russian guy was a bit cuckoo. Who knows what he was looking for but what was he going to do? Ask when the next bus left then smile as he didn't understand the response.
I also want to mention again, when I talk to people and then remember the convo I always remember what was said as a known commodity. The actual conversations are more hand gestures and nods and smiles than anything approaching understood words, but I do feel a level of understanding. Both because I can pick out a few words and because there are certain things that people tend to ask in situations, tea? married? children? want some food? etc.
Golan Heights (redux and success)
So off we went again...and this time everything went super smoothly. We were old hands afterall.
The only thing was after we accepted a 500 sp offer for the drive around we saw a Japanese fellow walking on the site with his military escort (a dude who may or may not know anything about the city). So apparently the cost is only for the driver and we could have paid even less. Go figure.
But enough of economics. Quenaitra is a city/town (I'm not sure of its exact size, but significant) which was overrun nby Israeli troops, I believe during the 1967 war. (I should mention now that I can access a part of the blogger pages and write these posts, but for some reason can't see my old ones. My apologies if this is a rehash). They went pretty far and then pulled back and Queneitra was one of the spots they momentarily occuppied. Long enough to bulldoze all the houses and shoot up the hospital, etc etc.
It's a pretty strange place. There is a UN observation post there and a lot of flattened structures. The hospital remains, but became a shooting gallery, target practice zone so is pretty messy, the church is intact and the mosque has a giant hole in the minaret...aside from tha, pretty much flat. Some Syrians were picnicing in the rubble (revisiting homes?), but to get there we had to go through an occuppied but unalert UN checkpoint as well as one or two Syrian ones (hence the need for our little piece of paper from the ministry of the interior). A very desolate spot.
Just across the way (we were about 20m from the Israeli border at one point) everything turns very green. Israel was happily growing a lot of whatever right up to the border, looked over by a lot of structures and antennaes on some heights just a little ways off. And this is what, once again it's really all about. The water.
By taking the heights Israel, along with the defensive claims, gets the Sea of Galilee catchment, responsible for about a 1/3 of the country's water. In negotiations with Syria, they want all the Heights back, Israel wants to keep a 200m milkitary buffer on the easter side of the Galilee (I think I got all this from BBC). Politics, religion? BS. It's all about the maayeh (water).
An interesting trip and given the history happening right now in the region I think a better trip than wandering off to see yet another old city. That stuff's not going to change anytime soon.
The only thing was after we accepted a 500 sp offer for the drive around we saw a Japanese fellow walking on the site with his military escort (a dude who may or may not know anything about the city). So apparently the cost is only for the driver and we could have paid even less. Go figure.
But enough of economics. Quenaitra is a city/town (I'm not sure of its exact size, but significant) which was overrun nby Israeli troops, I believe during the 1967 war. (I should mention now that I can access a part of the blogger pages and write these posts, but for some reason can't see my old ones. My apologies if this is a rehash). They went pretty far and then pulled back and Queneitra was one of the spots they momentarily occuppied. Long enough to bulldoze all the houses and shoot up the hospital, etc etc.
It's a pretty strange place. There is a UN observation post there and a lot of flattened structures. The hospital remains, but became a shooting gallery, target practice zone so is pretty messy, the church is intact and the mosque has a giant hole in the minaret...aside from tha, pretty much flat. Some Syrians were picnicing in the rubble (revisiting homes?), but to get there we had to go through an occuppied but unalert UN checkpoint as well as one or two Syrian ones (hence the need for our little piece of paper from the ministry of the interior). A very desolate spot.
Just across the way (we were about 20m from the Israeli border at one point) everything turns very green. Israel was happily growing a lot of whatever right up to the border, looked over by a lot of structures and antennaes on some heights just a little ways off. And this is what, once again it's really all about. The water.
By taking the heights Israel, along with the defensive claims, gets the Sea of Galilee catchment, responsible for about a 1/3 of the country's water. In negotiations with Syria, they want all the Heights back, Israel wants to keep a 200m milkitary buffer on the easter side of the Galilee (I think I got all this from BBC). Politics, religion? BS. It's all about the maayeh (water).
An interesting trip and given the history happening right now in the region I think a better trip than wandering off to see yet another old city. That stuff's not going to change anytime soon.
First the general
We are currently in Hama, home to many large norias (waterwheels) that scoop the Orontes river into aqueducts that then carry it off to fields for irrigation. I'm not sure the aqueducts are the method of transit now, given a lot of them seem a bit frayed and well...non-existent at points, but I'm assured that in spring when the water levels are higher these big glorious bastards creak into action and spread water here and there. They are necessary because the Orontes has fairly steep banks, making other methods of extraction less helpful.
Hama itself is a nice city, pleasant to walk in during the evenings. Today we walked on the other bank up a ways and it was slightly less pleasant. Maybe it was just the time of day but things felt hrrrrm, I'll say less nice. Probably because people don't usually go for walks over there.
Unfortunately our walk ended at the museum wherethey decided by student identity card was illegitimate. Apparently, despite my use of it all over Syria, there is some 3 month old command from the head poobah in Damascus that students can only be students to the age of 26. So I'm screwed. Hopefully it's a one time deal because I much prefer spending 10 syrian pounds to get into places over 150. Go figure.
But let's get to some specifics.
Hama itself is a nice city, pleasant to walk in during the evenings. Today we walked on the other bank up a ways and it was slightly less pleasant. Maybe it was just the time of day but things felt hrrrrm, I'll say less nice. Probably because people don't usually go for walks over there.
Unfortunately our walk ended at the museum wherethey decided by student identity card was illegitimate. Apparently, despite my use of it all over Syria, there is some 3 month old command from the head poobah in Damascus that students can only be students to the age of 26. So I'm screwed. Hopefully it's a one time deal because I much prefer spending 10 syrian pounds to get into places over 150. Go figure.
But let's get to some specifics.
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