At the guest house I have had a number of conversations, as is my want, and they have got me thinking.
One Welsh fellow is currently working in Cairo for the British Council, teaching English and spreading the good word of British culture to all who will listen. He works about 4 days a week with fairly relaxed hours and gets reasonable holiday and pay.
Another feloow, Pierre the New Brunswicker, is currently living life in Saudi Arabia. Gets about 5 months holiday a year and is getting paid very well. Only draw back is he has to live in Saudi Arabia.
The conversations, however, have made me very aware of the teaching English opportunities that are out there. I don't think I can become insanely wealthy, but it seems you can make a living, and if you're a little bit careful with your money even put some of it away. And the time off...well if I could just get that whole self-discipline thing down I could actually do some writing.
Unfortunately, it also means living overseas for years at a time, with brief visits back, rather than living in Canada and travelling overseas. Decisions decisions. IU guess my upcoming stint in France will give me an idea of whether it is something I want to pursue.
Saturday, June 28, 2008
Nargila
Oh yee water pipe with flavoured tabacco...a stereotypical part of the middle east and one that I would have liked to imbibe periodically.
Unfortunately nargila and I do not agree. Not sure if I inhale too deeply or smoke too quickly or what it is, but after a relaxed 15-20 minutes I always end up feeling unright and have a cold sweat break out all over my body.
Oh well. I tried. I guess I'll just have to spend my money on various fruit drinks.
Things that make me say darn.
Unfortunately nargila and I do not agree. Not sure if I inhale too deeply or smoke too quickly or what it is, but after a relaxed 15-20 minutes I always end up feeling unright and have a cold sweat break out all over my body.
Oh well. I tried. I guess I'll just have to spend my money on various fruit drinks.
Things that make me say darn.
Golan Heights (and roads not taken)
We were casting around for a day trip to do from here, and not having much luck, when a New Brunswicker named Piere suggested a trip to the Golan Heights.
We figured out the buses got to the station, caught our connection, got to the town where you go on to the previously occupied area and...we needed some sort of pass from the ministry of the interior in Damascus. Oh crud.
At least we were using local buses and it wasn't too expensive. We know where we need to go to get the passes and the plan is to do tomorrow what we meant to do today. Should be a gas! And hopefully all our friends will be waiting to gouge us for a one hour tour. Heh.
We have decided not to bother with a day trip to Bosra (former capital of Rome's province here) and home of a gigantic amphitheatre. And also skip Palmyra, another Roman city, generally considered to be 'can't miss'. Why skip the two biggest Roman sites in Syria...just because. Bosra just kind of was put aside, maybe we would have gone down there if Golan wasn't happening. Palmyra just seems like a lot of effort to see another city. We've already seen a few and hiking our bags over there (on a bus of course) just doesn't seem terribly appealing).
So when we leave here, we'll be heading north to Hama and Crac de Chevaliers...now castles, I don't think I'll ever tire of them.
We figured out the buses got to the station, caught our connection, got to the town where you go on to the previously occupied area and...we needed some sort of pass from the ministry of the interior in Damascus. Oh crud.
At least we were using local buses and it wasn't too expensive. We know where we need to go to get the passes and the plan is to do tomorrow what we meant to do today. Should be a gas! And hopefully all our friends will be waiting to gouge us for a one hour tour. Heh.
We have decided not to bother with a day trip to Bosra (former capital of Rome's province here) and home of a gigantic amphitheatre. And also skip Palmyra, another Roman city, generally considered to be 'can't miss'. Why skip the two biggest Roman sites in Syria...just because. Bosra just kind of was put aside, maybe we would have gone down there if Golan wasn't happening. Palmyra just seems like a lot of effort to see another city. We've already seen a few and hiking our bags over there (on a bus of course) just doesn't seem terribly appealing).
So when we leave here, we'll be heading north to Hama and Crac de Chevaliers...now castles, I don't think I'll ever tire of them.
Friday
Friday is the holy day here, and Damascus REALLY shuts down on a Friday. Not just the city but all the 'tourist' places as well.
It reveals how a great deal of the tourist industry here, unlike in SE Asia is not based around the western Europeans and North Americans. An interesting difference. Saturday seems a bit more relaxed day than the rest of the week but the stark contrast to how much the whole place shuts down onj Friday is something else.
It reveals how a great deal of the tourist industry here, unlike in SE Asia is not based around the western Europeans and North Americans. An interesting difference. Saturday seems a bit more relaxed day than the rest of the week but the stark contrast to how much the whole place shuts down onj Friday is something else.
Where to begin??? - general
The last few days have been about wandering and relaxing.
The Al- Arabie hotel continues to be lovely...the water has been a bit finicky but whatever. The relaxed covered garden is aces. From there we have wandered the old city of Damascus a number of times.
Therein we visited a Khan...an old rest house used by the caravans. This one had a large central courtyard with fountain and the rooms in corridors around the outside. Got me wondering, did the old caravan guys ever talk about their favourite Khans? Did Achmad's khan in damascus really have the best hummus, and was looked forward to once every 3 years?
Checked out the house/palace of the Ottomoan administrator. This was divided into two sections, one for business and one for family. It to was all about a central courtyard with fountain. This seems to be a repeated pattern, just a question scale. It's interesting how so many of these houses have tiny doors to the street and so much more space on the inside that from a narrow darkened door you would never guess existed.
We also wandered a number of covered souqs...basically a lot of stores.Given my minimal desire to buy anything, whatever.
And the showpiece of the place. The Ummayad Mosque. This jobby is huge and has plenty of fancy columns and artwork to please the eye. Zoe had to throw on a little hooded garment which she fell in love with. I, however was not fortunate enough to don special duds. Sigh, maybe someday.
Aside from that the old city is a lot of walking, a lot of questioning why a car feels the need to be there, etc. The cars do remind me that the city is still lived and in use. Yes there are restaurants and shops everywhere, but they are still very much part of a live in space.
And I will also mention here, the glory of the ISIC card. International Student Identity Card. Basically wqe've been using it for admissions and they tend to drop from 50 syrain pounds to 10, or once from 150 to 10. Very nice indeed.
The Al- Arabie hotel continues to be lovely...the water has been a bit finicky but whatever. The relaxed covered garden is aces. From there we have wandered the old city of Damascus a number of times.
Therein we visited a Khan...an old rest house used by the caravans. This one had a large central courtyard with fountain and the rooms in corridors around the outside. Got me wondering, did the old caravan guys ever talk about their favourite Khans? Did Achmad's khan in damascus really have the best hummus, and was looked forward to once every 3 years?
Checked out the house/palace of the Ottomoan administrator. This was divided into two sections, one for business and one for family. It to was all about a central courtyard with fountain. This seems to be a repeated pattern, just a question scale. It's interesting how so many of these houses have tiny doors to the street and so much more space on the inside that from a narrow darkened door you would never guess existed.
We also wandered a number of covered souqs...basically a lot of stores.Given my minimal desire to buy anything, whatever.
And the showpiece of the place. The Ummayad Mosque. This jobby is huge and has plenty of fancy columns and artwork to please the eye. Zoe had to throw on a little hooded garment which she fell in love with. I, however was not fortunate enough to don special duds. Sigh, maybe someday.
Aside from that the old city is a lot of walking, a lot of questioning why a car feels the need to be there, etc. The cars do remind me that the city is still lived and in use. Yes there are restaurants and shops everywhere, but they are still very much part of a live in space.
And I will also mention here, the glory of the ISIC card. International Student Identity Card. Basically wqe've been using it for admissions and they tend to drop from 50 syrain pounds to 10, or once from 150 to 10. Very nice indeed.
Wednesday, June 25, 2008
stares
Also, I have decided to retire from stressing about whatever looks may or may not be directed at the various blond harlots I find myself walking around with from time to time.
I realized one day that I tend to glance at a periodic girl myself, maybe I bit more surreptitiously than the looks one normally sees here, but equivalent just the same. My looks are always welcomed (I think... right, maybe?), but I think the line is too fine so I have no right to criticize.
I realized one day that I tend to glance at a periodic girl myself, maybe I bit more surreptitiously than the looks one normally sees here, but equivalent just the same. My looks are always welcomed (I think... right, maybe?), but I think the line is too fine so I have no right to criticize.
ice cream???
In Jordan you hear the plaintive strains of an ice cream truck from time to time. Only trick is, it's actually the propane truck.
Nothing more to the story than that. Just amusing.
Nothing more to the story than that. Just amusing.
last meat in Jordan
I feel I should mention that my last sandwich that had meat in Jordan was an attempted shwarma that turned out to be liver and onions.
That first bite left no doubt and got rid of that pesky anemia.
That first bite left no doubt and got rid of that pesky anemia.
Syria
Woot!
Border went well, and I may have even been able to buy a visa there...meh, life is easier when it's already in your passport. Got to Damascus and ... hosed on the cab fare. Not the worst in the world, but a pain in the ass just the same. I talked him 'down' to about 5 times what we should have paid, but then he didn't have the right change and ... blech.
Very friend;y guy and the best part was he was busy negotiating all the drives he would take me on in the next few days while he was screwing me on the first one. Sure thing pal!!! Also, I really enjoyed when he was showing me his driver's license with his year of birth and asking for mine...are you sure you don't want to watch the road? No? Okay!
Like I said, a fine fellow to be sure.
Damascus, at least the immediate downtown seems super keen. Or at least fairly keen. There is a bit of a dearth of things to do (as awkwardly worded as that is). Mayhaps a place to relax more than site see, although the old city has plenty of that to do. The really weird thing about Dam. is because it is built on a plain there are straight roads and sightlines.
As I live and breath. I thought the hills of Amman were starting to wear on my mind a bit and I think I was right.
Already I have has a shwarma, tastes different than in Jordan, and found a store with a bunch of REALLY interesting maps of Syria. Maybe they were just for show??? Maybe they are for sale and I will soon be regretting my actions and also being poor. Mumkin.
This internet cafe is near the French cultural centre and there are some people chatting french in here. Maybe now is my time to start practicing. Or not.
Border went well, and I may have even been able to buy a visa there...meh, life is easier when it's already in your passport. Got to Damascus and ... hosed on the cab fare. Not the worst in the world, but a pain in the ass just the same. I talked him 'down' to about 5 times what we should have paid, but then he didn't have the right change and ... blech.
Very friend;y guy and the best part was he was busy negotiating all the drives he would take me on in the next few days while he was screwing me on the first one. Sure thing pal!!! Also, I really enjoyed when he was showing me his driver's license with his year of birth and asking for mine...are you sure you don't want to watch the road? No? Okay!
Like I said, a fine fellow to be sure.
Damascus, at least the immediate downtown seems super keen. Or at least fairly keen. There is a bit of a dearth of things to do (as awkwardly worded as that is). Mayhaps a place to relax more than site see, although the old city has plenty of that to do. The really weird thing about Dam. is because it is built on a plain there are straight roads and sightlines.
As I live and breath. I thought the hills of Amman were starting to wear on my mind a bit and I think I was right.
Already I have has a shwarma, tastes different than in Jordan, and found a store with a bunch of REALLY interesting maps of Syria. Maybe they were just for show??? Maybe they are for sale and I will soon be regretting my actions and also being poor. Mumkin.
This internet cafe is near the French cultural centre and there are some people chatting french in here. Maybe now is my time to start practicing. Or not.
Qalaat ar-Rabad and tea (of course)
So as planned on the last full day in Jordan we headed out to Ajloun to check out Qasr ar-Rabad. For those that were in Jordan previously and are now reading this (you know who you are) the bus system is THAT much easier on the weekdays. Holy crap were those little bastards moving out of the station in a hurry.
3 seconds out of the cab and we were on our way.
The castle was schwank, built with a smaller footprint than Karak it was more layers and ramps and stairs on top of itself. Very cool. As far as who wins in a fight a Crusader castle or a Islamic castle. Depends on the mountain I guess. They all seem pretty cool to me.
We were walking back to town to catch our bus back to Amman and as per usual were invited for coffee. We were politely declining until the guy said "we're not all Osama bin-Ladens" or something to that effect. Heh.
Jurious was the man's name and apparently he and the family were on the porch with ready made coffee because a nephew had been electrocuted at the Dead Sea a few days before and they were still accepting condolences. Ah-hah. Thanks for the invite! But as per usual they were great people.
Jurious, whose name means George (like the saint...although at first I thought he was sayiong jurious like curious like curious george) was very interested in explaioning that most Muslims in Jordan are top notch, it's just the fundamentalists that are bad news. They have too many kids and are therefore able to take charge in elections and control a great number of seats in parliament. Interesting. He told us all sorts of stuff, like how lots of Jordanians now in US and Canada tend to come back to get their dental work done and even with the flight they're still only at 20%. What a deal!
After tea we bid farewell and got on a bus for Amman. A bus featuring an artist who told me I had a beautiful face, and then told Zoe she had one and then drew her portrait as we weaved and wobbled and ground gears through the mountains of northern Jordan.
Nice picture...looks very minimally like Zoe, but a nice picture to be sure.
And that...I think that's all I have to say about Jordan. (for now)
3 seconds out of the cab and we were on our way.
The castle was schwank, built with a smaller footprint than Karak it was more layers and ramps and stairs on top of itself. Very cool. As far as who wins in a fight a Crusader castle or a Islamic castle. Depends on the mountain I guess. They all seem pretty cool to me.
We were walking back to town to catch our bus back to Amman and as per usual were invited for coffee. We were politely declining until the guy said "we're not all Osama bin-Ladens" or something to that effect. Heh.
Jurious was the man's name and apparently he and the family were on the porch with ready made coffee because a nephew had been electrocuted at the Dead Sea a few days before and they were still accepting condolences. Ah-hah. Thanks for the invite! But as per usual they were great people.
Jurious, whose name means George (like the saint...although at first I thought he was sayiong jurious like curious like curious george) was very interested in explaioning that most Muslims in Jordan are top notch, it's just the fundamentalists that are bad news. They have too many kids and are therefore able to take charge in elections and control a great number of seats in parliament. Interesting. He told us all sorts of stuff, like how lots of Jordanians now in US and Canada tend to come back to get their dental work done and even with the flight they're still only at 20%. What a deal!
After tea we bid farewell and got on a bus for Amman. A bus featuring an artist who told me I had a beautiful face, and then told Zoe she had one and then drew her portrait as we weaved and wobbled and ground gears through the mountains of northern Jordan.
Nice picture...looks very minimally like Zoe, but a nice picture to be sure.
And that...I think that's all I have to say about Jordan. (for now)
Monday, June 23, 2008
guidebooks
And I'll just throw this in...I'm much more comfortable with the idea of using a guidebook this time around.
I guess I'm not trying to prove myself (as much) or I'm more confident or something. Or maybe it's because as long as I don't wear a tan vest with the LP guide in hand I won't look too goofy.
I'm sure he's a wonderful person and a tremendous traveller, and mocking him only belittles me, but what's done is done.
I guess I'm not trying to prove myself (as much) or I'm more confident or something. Or maybe it's because as long as I don't wear a tan vest with the LP guide in hand I won't look too goofy.
I'm sure he's a wonderful person and a tremendous traveller, and mocking him only belittles me, but what's done is done.
...next
We haven't figured out how we're going to Damascus, but it will happen on Wednesday. That is one thing we know for sure!
(bus or service taxi, not a big deal).
Tomorrow though is up in the air. I decided not to bother with the desert castles to the east of AMman, but there is a castle up north near Ajloun that I might want to check out. It's an Islamic castle, built by Salah-ha Din's nephew or son or something, rather than the Crusader castles that were subsequently altered that I have seen thus far.
The town itself is just past Jerash and I think getting there will require a similar series of tricks (ie bus station, local bus etc.) something I'm fairly confident with. So maybe that for tomorrow.
Then off to Syria Wednesday.
Damascus then likely Palmyra, Homs (or more likely the city north of it that has big cool waterwheels), Krak de Chevaliers (now that's a castle!), Lattakia on teh coast then Aleppo before rocking and rolling all the way to Istanbul. Maybe bus, maybe train, maybe we shall see. I think that's enough writing for me. I know I keep saying I'll start doing this more often, and maybe some day I will. And the you'll get to read the really incisive, thoughtful commentary.
(bus or service taxi, not a big deal).
Tomorrow though is up in the air. I decided not to bother with the desert castles to the east of AMman, but there is a castle up north near Ajloun that I might want to check out. It's an Islamic castle, built by Salah-ha Din's nephew or son or something, rather than the Crusader castles that were subsequently altered that I have seen thus far.
The town itself is just past Jerash and I think getting there will require a similar series of tricks (ie bus station, local bus etc.) something I'm fairly confident with. So maybe that for tomorrow.
Then off to Syria Wednesday.
Damascus then likely Palmyra, Homs (or more likely the city north of it that has big cool waterwheels), Krak de Chevaliers (now that's a castle!), Lattakia on teh coast then Aleppo before rocking and rolling all the way to Istanbul. Maybe bus, maybe train, maybe we shall see. I think that's enough writing for me. I know I keep saying I'll start doing this more often, and maybe some day I will. And the you'll get to read the really incisive, thoughtful commentary.
Amman history
So basically there are 4 or 5 million people in Amman today. Originally built on 7 hills it's now on a whole bunch more. Some edges tend to sprawl farther than others, but apparently a lot of its growth is simply due to the fact it has now connected to the Palestinian refugee camps and suburbs that surround it.
In 1948 there was only 30 000 people here and that jumped to 250 000 by 1960. Crazy! A part of that is Palestinian but apparently people tend to have more kids generally these days and for Amman's specific case a lot of people who formerly lived Bedouiny, nomadic or small town lives, have simply moved to the city.
Seeing the pictures of Amman around the Roman Theatre (I think they were 1920s ish) was cool. There was one or two houses behind, where now it's a wall.
Wandering the city I've also been noticing a distinct French Cambodian feel to the place. Now the French protectorates were Syria and Lebanon, but maybe their art deco influence managed to subtly wander down here as well? Or maybe it's just because I'm reading a book about Pol Pot (almost done Kristin, thanks) and it's hot out? Who knows.
Whtever the case. Amman is alright. And I actually do feel better about it now that I had an out and about day with lots of clambering. Do I want to live here? Mumkin, but I'd need to get a wicked apartment on a hill. That would be key, for both air quality and noise levels. I could see it. But I can see anything when I have some books to read and some other ones to write in.
In 1948 there was only 30 000 people here and that jumped to 250 000 by 1960. Crazy! A part of that is Palestinian but apparently people tend to have more kids generally these days and for Amman's specific case a lot of people who formerly lived Bedouiny, nomadic or small town lives, have simply moved to the city.
Seeing the pictures of Amman around the Roman Theatre (I think they were 1920s ish) was cool. There was one or two houses behind, where now it's a wall.
Wandering the city I've also been noticing a distinct French Cambodian feel to the place. Now the French protectorates were Syria and Lebanon, but maybe their art deco influence managed to subtly wander down here as well? Or maybe it's just because I'm reading a book about Pol Pot (almost done Kristin, thanks) and it's hot out? Who knows.
Whtever the case. Amman is alright. And I actually do feel better about it now that I had an out and about day with lots of clambering. Do I want to live here? Mumkin, but I'd need to get a wicked apartment on a hill. That would be key, for both air quality and noise levels. I could see it. But I can see anything when I have some books to read and some other ones to write in.
Amman
Mercy...tired...hopefully you're following along alright.
Bus from Karak to Amman went smoothly. We grabbed a cab from the station. The guy wanted a 4JD fair, but we said meter. He said okay, but gas prices are going up so itll be 4 JD. At the end of the ride the meter said 1.400JD so I paid that and he kept asking for 4, although he might have switched to 2 at one point. While he was asking for that he was also writing his number and name on a piece of paper if we needed his services further and Zoe was unloading the trunk. All very confusing, but our bags were out of the back, he was paid what he was owed and we found a room for 4JD a pop at teh CLiff Hotel. PERFECT!
I've spent a lot of time not doing too much in Amman. Just napping and sleeping and watching soccer that's playing in a restaurant across the alley from our room. It's too far to make much our I spend most of my time trying to guess which teams are playing and why the Jordanians might be cheering for one team over another. They LOVE the Russians.
We tried to find Indiana Jones at a move theatre here yesterday and we found the two theatres, but neither was playing Indy. Apparently he's at the uptown theatre...maybe when I'm back home, although it would have been fun to see it here.
I've been having a weird sensation of being trapped in Amman the last few days. Not stuck, but physically enclosed. I have two theories around this. The first one is Zoe. She doesn't want it, and I'm not consciously doing it, but there's a degree of protection I feel the need to provide here. Even if it's just looks I find myself responding to them or moving in front of them...my ass is nicer anyway. Zoe (and Kristin and other girls on the dig I assume) tend to ignore the looks altogether. They're going to happen so why get worked up about them? So this was one thought I had. Zoe was going up to University of Jordan in the north of Amman today, so if that was the cause maybe it is out of my system now.
The other possible cause is the geography of the city itself. Amman is built onto hills and tends to sprawl. The sprawl isn't a big deal, but the hills throw a wrench in my traditional wanderings. Look at a map and you think you have an idea where you're going, until you run into a mountain and realize that those two roads that are very close and parallel are actually separated by the ol' 50 foot vertical drop. As a result until today I found myself restricted to the valley floor.
But TODAY! I made a decision to walk over some mountains. And I did. There are lots of staircases about that you just need to look for and just been willing to sweat a bit (and tighten your glutes) allows you to save time and escape the geography of the mountains, if only for a minute. My wanderings took me to the bus station, then the Iraqi embassy before scaling another of the hills to find the Abu Darwish Mosque. It's a neat striped black and white dealy. I saw a big set of squares when I was on the other side of the valley, tracked them to where I thought they'd be but could find them so wandered up one of teh twisting roads instead. I asked questions, found the mosque and inevitably found my way back down a set of stairs...the very ones I was looking for before, that started 3 feet to the left of where I had turned right. Oh well.
As an added benefit some little kids whose mum ran a shop half way down the stairs harangued me, gave me a pop and demanded I take their picture. Good times.
So I am now tired, but more pleased about myself because I didn't sit in my room all day and read. I walked...and read outside the British Council building...or thereabouts.
That reminds me! I started my day at an arts centre/gallery/cafe. Built above some Byzantine church ruins, above it sits some old houses, one of which TE Lawrence wrote 7 Pillars of Wisdom in. Very fun. It must have been a fairly solitary writing experience, judging by some pictures of old Amman i was looking at the other day...a new post methinks.
Bus from Karak to Amman went smoothly. We grabbed a cab from the station. The guy wanted a 4JD fair, but we said meter. He said okay, but gas prices are going up so itll be 4 JD. At the end of the ride the meter said 1.400JD so I paid that and he kept asking for 4, although he might have switched to 2 at one point. While he was asking for that he was also writing his number and name on a piece of paper if we needed his services further and Zoe was unloading the trunk. All very confusing, but our bags were out of the back, he was paid what he was owed and we found a room for 4JD a pop at teh CLiff Hotel. PERFECT!
I've spent a lot of time not doing too much in Amman. Just napping and sleeping and watching soccer that's playing in a restaurant across the alley from our room. It's too far to make much our I spend most of my time trying to guess which teams are playing and why the Jordanians might be cheering for one team over another. They LOVE the Russians.
We tried to find Indiana Jones at a move theatre here yesterday and we found the two theatres, but neither was playing Indy. Apparently he's at the uptown theatre...maybe when I'm back home, although it would have been fun to see it here.
I've been having a weird sensation of being trapped in Amman the last few days. Not stuck, but physically enclosed. I have two theories around this. The first one is Zoe. She doesn't want it, and I'm not consciously doing it, but there's a degree of protection I feel the need to provide here. Even if it's just looks I find myself responding to them or moving in front of them...my ass is nicer anyway. Zoe (and Kristin and other girls on the dig I assume) tend to ignore the looks altogether. They're going to happen so why get worked up about them? So this was one thought I had. Zoe was going up to University of Jordan in the north of Amman today, so if that was the cause maybe it is out of my system now.
The other possible cause is the geography of the city itself. Amman is built onto hills and tends to sprawl. The sprawl isn't a big deal, but the hills throw a wrench in my traditional wanderings. Look at a map and you think you have an idea where you're going, until you run into a mountain and realize that those two roads that are very close and parallel are actually separated by the ol' 50 foot vertical drop. As a result until today I found myself restricted to the valley floor.
But TODAY! I made a decision to walk over some mountains. And I did. There are lots of staircases about that you just need to look for and just been willing to sweat a bit (and tighten your glutes) allows you to save time and escape the geography of the mountains, if only for a minute. My wanderings took me to the bus station, then the Iraqi embassy before scaling another of the hills to find the Abu Darwish Mosque. It's a neat striped black and white dealy. I saw a big set of squares when I was on the other side of the valley, tracked them to where I thought they'd be but could find them so wandered up one of teh twisting roads instead. I asked questions, found the mosque and inevitably found my way back down a set of stairs...the very ones I was looking for before, that started 3 feet to the left of where I had turned right. Oh well.
As an added benefit some little kids whose mum ran a shop half way down the stairs harangued me, gave me a pop and demanded I take their picture. Good times.
So I am now tired, but more pleased about myself because I didn't sit in my room all day and read. I walked...and read outside the British Council building...or thereabouts.
That reminds me! I started my day at an arts centre/gallery/cafe. Built above some Byzantine church ruins, above it sits some old houses, one of which TE Lawrence wrote 7 Pillars of Wisdom in. Very fun. It must have been a fairly solitary writing experience, judging by some pictures of old Amman i was looking at the other day...a new post methinks.
Karak hospitality
Zoe and I were enjoying the Karak evening, noting the distinct lack of tourists about...my guess is they come in via bus for the castle and are gone again quickly. The town was lovely, people playing soccer in the square, a carnival we had noticed earlier springing into action...and tires flying down a hill.
Let me explain. The carnival is on a valley, ie the top end of the valley has been filled in, but at the edge of the fill is a very steep hill that goes down and at the bottom of which there sits a huge pile of tires. Hmmmmm? Until we saw that people must drop off old tires adjacent to the carnival where kids pick them up, roll them to the edge, then race those mothers down.
I was high above watching from Karak and I was deeply satisfied by the karams (sp?) and richochets here there and everywhere. AMAZING.
But this is all a side note, we climbed a tower and when looking at the glorious hills rolling into the distance a guy down below waved, yelled picture and posed in an amusing manner. Sure I figured...he then offered us tea, sure we figured, so we scrambled down the tower and around to meet Ali and Nabid.
Now when I say Karak is on a hill, I really mean it. We are talking STEEP edges and the location we'd been invited down to was that. From Nabid's house to where we sat probably 40 vertical feet, and maybe 10 horizontal...maybe. I don't know ratios, but it was steep. As far as I could tell Nabid and Ali are best buds and have themselves a little goat BBQ every friday night back there. They had some meat left over and it was delicious. Nabid owns a shoe store and Ali I think works there, but is also a kickboxer and wants to go to Canada to work.
Before long various relatives appeared. Nabid's dad, speaking on rich Jews, poor Jordanians, all of us as one people and a strange interest in how much we were paying to travel and the Turkish gold that is supposedly everywhere in Karak (if you have the right "lamp"??? to find it), a bunch of his brothers, a brother in law with his kids, etc etc. We drank delcious mint tea, smoked a bit of nargila and eventually moved things indoors. Had some coffee, some yoghurt drink, Zoe got shiipped off to the women and then hung out some more.
At some point in my convo they asked about our marriage and I slipped up and said we weren't....but soon, I swear. And she was yammering on about this and that (dad you're a farmer now). We've decided to just be engaged from now on. Somehow that should be easier to lie about. Especially since she still doesn't have a ring.
Without getting into all the things we talked about, and all the moments of silence in between, the visit was amazing. A classic "I went to Jordan and they were so hospitable" story.
But, really the whole thing made me uncomfortable after a point. The brother who was a doctor assured me I should contact him if I needed anything while I was in Jordan. The dad had us invited to stay the night pretty soon into the whole affair and everyone was just super kind. When we finally got out of there around 11 (after I'd tried once before, but another round of tea was already on the way) they wanted us to stay for food.
Crazy.
Maybe part of my apprehension stems from the little lies around me and Zoe. Trying to respect their culture makes me lie, but I guess it's inappropriate for me to be touring around with my friend, so we have to tell the tale. And I get all their details etc. and if I come back here I'd love to get in touch again, but then I have to explain what has happened to Zoe. Yarrgh.
Whatever. It was a wonderful experience, that has way too many details for me to recount fully here.
I'll just say Ali is an interesting fellow, big and bearded, a kick bozer or karate guy as mentioned, and the 'moon of karak' according to one of the guys. Undeniable charisma and no english, a fine fellow...but I also got the feeling that whenever they mentioned Ali wants to go to Canada or the US to work, i WAS meant to say "I can help with that". ALas I cannot.
Let me explain. The carnival is on a valley, ie the top end of the valley has been filled in, but at the edge of the fill is a very steep hill that goes down and at the bottom of which there sits a huge pile of tires. Hmmmmm? Until we saw that people must drop off old tires adjacent to the carnival where kids pick them up, roll them to the edge, then race those mothers down.
I was high above watching from Karak and I was deeply satisfied by the karams (sp?) and richochets here there and everywhere. AMAZING.
But this is all a side note, we climbed a tower and when looking at the glorious hills rolling into the distance a guy down below waved, yelled picture and posed in an amusing manner. Sure I figured...he then offered us tea, sure we figured, so we scrambled down the tower and around to meet Ali and Nabid.
Now when I say Karak is on a hill, I really mean it. We are talking STEEP edges and the location we'd been invited down to was that. From Nabid's house to where we sat probably 40 vertical feet, and maybe 10 horizontal...maybe. I don't know ratios, but it was steep. As far as I could tell Nabid and Ali are best buds and have themselves a little goat BBQ every friday night back there. They had some meat left over and it was delicious. Nabid owns a shoe store and Ali I think works there, but is also a kickboxer and wants to go to Canada to work.
Before long various relatives appeared. Nabid's dad, speaking on rich Jews, poor Jordanians, all of us as one people and a strange interest in how much we were paying to travel and the Turkish gold that is supposedly everywhere in Karak (if you have the right "lamp"??? to find it), a bunch of his brothers, a brother in law with his kids, etc etc. We drank delcious mint tea, smoked a bit of nargila and eventually moved things indoors. Had some coffee, some yoghurt drink, Zoe got shiipped off to the women and then hung out some more.
At some point in my convo they asked about our marriage and I slipped up and said we weren't....but soon, I swear. And she was yammering on about this and that (dad you're a farmer now). We've decided to just be engaged from now on. Somehow that should be easier to lie about. Especially since she still doesn't have a ring.
Without getting into all the things we talked about, and all the moments of silence in between, the visit was amazing. A classic "I went to Jordan and they were so hospitable" story.
But, really the whole thing made me uncomfortable after a point. The brother who was a doctor assured me I should contact him if I needed anything while I was in Jordan. The dad had us invited to stay the night pretty soon into the whole affair and everyone was just super kind. When we finally got out of there around 11 (after I'd tried once before, but another round of tea was already on the way) they wanted us to stay for food.
Crazy.
Maybe part of my apprehension stems from the little lies around me and Zoe. Trying to respect their culture makes me lie, but I guess it's inappropriate for me to be touring around with my friend, so we have to tell the tale. And I get all their details etc. and if I come back here I'd love to get in touch again, but then I have to explain what has happened to Zoe. Yarrgh.
Whatever. It was a wonderful experience, that has way too many details for me to recount fully here.
I'll just say Ali is an interesting fellow, big and bearded, a kick bozer or karate guy as mentioned, and the 'moon of karak' according to one of the guys. Undeniable charisma and no english, a fine fellow...but I also got the feeling that whenever they mentioned Ali wants to go to Canada or the US to work, i WAS meant to say "I can help with that". ALas I cannot.
Sweet monkey piss
Let's start with some details and then I can move on to some in depth loving of the world and all its intricacies if I see fit.
First of all, when I last left you the plan was to leave on Thursday, but without much encouragement we changed that to Friday giving one more day to mentally prepare for whatever was ahead. So on Friday we were off an running, or stumbling under weight of packs as the case may be. We hauled our asses to the bis station (the one just for Karak) and snagged two seats. Unfortunately, because our bags were placed on seats of their own we were charged for 4. NO biggy, but they were only there because the guy suggested it. The bus would have been full either way, so he wasn't scamming. I assume he just thought we'd want our bags there. Next time, it's aisle or bust!!!!
Found a place to stay in Karak with a super fellow just outside the castle and after a brief wander we hit up the reason to be in Karak, Karak Castle.
A specimen of Crusader castle technology, this sweety was nailed by Salah-al Din and his boys and was eventually taken over and added on to by the Mamlukes. Lots of fun all around. Tonnes of long galleries and underground tunnels, battlements to climb etc. And the position of both the castle and the town, literally perched atop a hill, is something pretty sweet.
That evening we wandered the town a bit, went to Delicious Meal cafe and wanted shwarma...as seems to happena lot on Friday nights they were out and were packing up, but they had felaffel. That sounded alright. Zoe wanted fries so we ordered some of those too. Somehow that meant felaffel sandwich in a pita and fries...in a pita. Hilarious but delicious, and the combo, with a marinda in a glass bottle made for a wicked photo op.
More wanders and then...and even for another post!
First of all, when I last left you the plan was to leave on Thursday, but without much encouragement we changed that to Friday giving one more day to mentally prepare for whatever was ahead. So on Friday we were off an running, or stumbling under weight of packs as the case may be. We hauled our asses to the bis station (the one just for Karak) and snagged two seats. Unfortunately, because our bags were placed on seats of their own we were charged for 4. NO biggy, but they were only there because the guy suggested it. The bus would have been full either way, so he wasn't scamming. I assume he just thought we'd want our bags there. Next time, it's aisle or bust!!!!
Found a place to stay in Karak with a super fellow just outside the castle and after a brief wander we hit up the reason to be in Karak, Karak Castle.
A specimen of Crusader castle technology, this sweety was nailed by Salah-al Din and his boys and was eventually taken over and added on to by the Mamlukes. Lots of fun all around. Tonnes of long galleries and underground tunnels, battlements to climb etc. And the position of both the castle and the town, literally perched atop a hill, is something pretty sweet.
That evening we wandered the town a bit, went to Delicious Meal cafe and wanted shwarma...as seems to happena lot on Friday nights they were out and were packing up, but they had felaffel. That sounded alright. Zoe wanted fries so we ordered some of those too. Somehow that meant felaffel sandwich in a pita and fries...in a pita. Hilarious but delicious, and the combo, with a marinda in a glass bottle made for a wicked photo op.
More wanders and then...and even for another post!
Wednesday, June 18, 2008
next year
and in case I haven't mentioned it yet...
I found out I'll be based in Rodez France next year, and that should just be lovely. A city just a bit bigger than Owen Sound but way more history and invasions and ROmans and 100 Years War and Popes and Visigoths and big old walls and general good times. So that should be good.
Then if I get invited back to Jordan next year and I want to go, I figure I'll go south through France and hit up Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Libya and Egypt on my way back here. Then Kristin and I figure catching the train from Moscow to Beijing might be a good time.
We shall see.
I found out I'll be based in Rodez France next year, and that should just be lovely. A city just a bit bigger than Owen Sound but way more history and invasions and ROmans and 100 Years War and Popes and Visigoths and big old walls and general good times. So that should be good.
Then if I get invited back to Jordan next year and I want to go, I figure I'll go south through France and hit up Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Libya and Egypt on my way back here. Then Kristin and I figure catching the train from Moscow to Beijing might be a good time.
We shall see.
Thoughts and goings
So with all the work done, once again I'm about to hit the road. This time with Zoe, my friend who I lived with at school this past year. Should be giggles.
As usual there is a degree of anticipation and nervousness that I always feel when I'm about to embark. Where will I be staying, what will I be eating, etc. And the relaxed life of Shokini hotel apartments has quite pleasant, AC'd afternoon naps are always a good time. There wasn't much time to just sit around and chat with people over the course of the dig. A little too much paperwork and desire to sleep for that, and it would be nice to have a day or two of that, but alas. Such things are not to be.
I've met some good people on this trip, some that I'll keep in touch with more than others, been annoyed by some people, wondered if I was so confusing when I was 18, and generally pondered the existence of humanity. Basically time well spent.
And tomorrow I catch a bus to Karak to see a cool crusader castle then to Amman and after a few days there onto Syria and Turkey. Giggles.
As usual there is a degree of anticipation and nervousness that I always feel when I'm about to embark. Where will I be staying, what will I be eating, etc. And the relaxed life of Shokini hotel apartments has quite pleasant, AC'd afternoon naps are always a good time. There wasn't much time to just sit around and chat with people over the course of the dig. A little too much paperwork and desire to sleep for that, and it would be nice to have a day or two of that, but alas. Such things are not to be.
I've met some good people on this trip, some that I'll keep in touch with more than others, been annoyed by some people, wondered if I was so confusing when I was 18, and generally pondered the existence of humanity. Basically time well spent.
And tomorrow I catch a bus to Karak to see a cool crusader castle then to Amman and after a few days there onto Syria and Turkey. Giggles.
archaeology
Who knows anymore.
Turns out I'm hella wicked with a fas kabir and craig and am able to move about two cubic metres of dirt before second breakfast when I put my mind to it.
I can also rock the show when it comes to baulk drawings. Meh. I really shouldn't brag...or take the time to explain what that entails. Well okay, it's basically measuring everything out carefully and drawing the stratigraphy of all the wonderful
trenches we dug.
I may have found some sort of 2.6m wide compacted earth track and I guess that's something, but mostly I just moved dirt. And worked out...but I managed to eat so much I am now obese. Heh. Well that's a lie, but I did eat a hell of a lot at every meal (good food in abundance = stuffy times), but it gave me the energy to rock the show so I shouldn't complain.
Because I could only get 3 of my 4 baulk drawings done on my last day on site I had to go back two days later on 'back fill day'. This is basically the Bedouin running around in a pack with wheelbarrows and shovels and dumping everything we moved out of holes back in. Basically protect some of the things we found, and make so that any child, goat or vehicle that might come by won't be too seriously damaged or at least has the chance to escape. Thrilling stuff. Also a very interesting day to watch the Bedouin work dynamic.
Many of them I would not call the keenest workers in the world...as great a senetence as that is. But when they're all together and there's a set job (you go home when it's done kind of thing) one would assume a certain certainty in purpose. Instead what you get is them arriving en masse at a specific site that needs to be filled, they then frantically go to work hauling dirt into arbayas (barrows) and dumping it into holes....sometimes along with the arbayas onto fragile mud brick walls. Oops. But that only lasts about 20 minutes, then you see one or two lounging on the dirt pile, then the arbayas slow down, then suddenly everyone is sityting and there is chai all over the place.
Inevitably a cheerful fellow will come up to one of the white folks to confirm that they've done a good job and they are in fact done. They're always shocked when they're not. In this case I think doubly so because all morning they were were with a staff member who is at times more interested in being friends than being a task master. Whatever the case...it was all done eventually.
I was a more than a bit grumpy, given I was working on my reports until late the day before and very tired as a result. Then when things weren't getting done, well being the hero that I am I single handedly moved 456,000 tonnes of earth. Or thereabouts. Whatever. Once the work was done I became less grumpy, hopped on the bus after much handshaking and cheek kissing and was headed back to Aqaba.
Everything archaeological is now done. My report is submitted and hopefully I'll get invited back next year. Don't know if I'll be in the mood then but I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.
Turns out I'm hella wicked with a fas kabir and craig and am able to move about two cubic metres of dirt before second breakfast when I put my mind to it.
I can also rock the show when it comes to baulk drawings. Meh. I really shouldn't brag...or take the time to explain what that entails. Well okay, it's basically measuring everything out carefully and drawing the stratigraphy of all the wonderful
trenches we dug.
I may have found some sort of 2.6m wide compacted earth track and I guess that's something, but mostly I just moved dirt. And worked out...but I managed to eat so much I am now obese. Heh. Well that's a lie, but I did eat a hell of a lot at every meal (good food in abundance = stuffy times), but it gave me the energy to rock the show so I shouldn't complain.
Because I could only get 3 of my 4 baulk drawings done on my last day on site I had to go back two days later on 'back fill day'. This is basically the Bedouin running around in a pack with wheelbarrows and shovels and dumping everything we moved out of holes back in. Basically protect some of the things we found, and make so that any child, goat or vehicle that might come by won't be too seriously damaged or at least has the chance to escape. Thrilling stuff. Also a very interesting day to watch the Bedouin work dynamic.
Many of them I would not call the keenest workers in the world...as great a senetence as that is. But when they're all together and there's a set job (you go home when it's done kind of thing) one would assume a certain certainty in purpose. Instead what you get is them arriving en masse at a specific site that needs to be filled, they then frantically go to work hauling dirt into arbayas (barrows) and dumping it into holes....sometimes along with the arbayas onto fragile mud brick walls. Oops. But that only lasts about 20 minutes, then you see one or two lounging on the dirt pile, then the arbayas slow down, then suddenly everyone is sityting and there is chai all over the place.
Inevitably a cheerful fellow will come up to one of the white folks to confirm that they've done a good job and they are in fact done. They're always shocked when they're not. In this case I think doubly so because all morning they were were with a staff member who is at times more interested in being friends than being a task master. Whatever the case...it was all done eventually.
I was a more than a bit grumpy, given I was working on my reports until late the day before and very tired as a result. Then when things weren't getting done, well being the hero that I am I single handedly moved 456,000 tonnes of earth. Or thereabouts. Whatever. Once the work was done I became less grumpy, hopped on the bus after much handshaking and cheek kissing and was headed back to Aqaba.
Everything archaeological is now done. My report is submitted and hopefully I'll get invited back next year. Don't know if I'll be in the mood then but I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.
once again...
Once again I have waited too long between internet visits.
Once again the cafe is hot and uncomfortable.
Once again things are at an end.
Once again travelling is at a beginning.
Once again I will soldier on and write some blog entries.
The adoring masses desire, nay demand, such efforts be put forth. As it is wished, so it shall be done.
Once again the cafe is hot and uncomfortable.
Once again things are at an end.
Once again travelling is at a beginning.
Once again I will soldier on and write some blog entries.
The adoring masses desire, nay demand, such efforts be put forth. As it is wished, so it shall be done.
Tuesday, June 10, 2008
blarrghy blarggherson
Work. Woot.
I think I'm a decent leader. Or at least this is what I have decided. The Bedouin seem to like me and generally don't mind working when I ask. I think my tendency to enjoy a good sit down as much (or more) than the next guy must have a beneficial effect on our relationship. There are some tensions with the other white folks and not as many with me, and I therefore assume this makes me awesome.
We're still digging lots of trenches looking for the road or something approximating it and it turns out I'm quite an apt hand with a fas kabir (big pick). The Bedouin are always telling me to shway shway (basically chill out) I think because they know me smashiong through 6 cubic meters of soil means more shovelling for them.
Aside from that what else is there to say. Last 'weekend' was for napping, but I feel I may have written my previous entry on the weekend.
Paperwork begins shortly. Given the simplicity of most of my squares (rectangle in the sand....) these shouldn't take too long. I do have quite a few that need to be dealt with, however, so I should probably get on it sooner than later. Maybe tonight. Maybe.
Oh I did ride a camel today. His name is Boyman and both he and his owner Salim are fine individuals. Top notch. Fairly easy to ride, if a little focused on the ol' crotcheroo when the camel is doing its lean forward leg bending awkwardness so you can get off. A wonderful lope to their stride that ends up making your head bob as you cruise along.
Sorry if this is a bit disjointed, but I'm listening to a touch of DragonForce as I type. Nothing like some folk metal about swords and evil armies and shit to get you in a topper mood.
Aside from that it's been a lot of wandering Aqaba, taking pictures of Chinese massage parlors, chatting with people and doing far too many exertive (there's a new word) things in the heat. Maybe I should follow the lead of the locals? Maybe, but they're here forever and I'm almost done.
I think I'm a decent leader. Or at least this is what I have decided. The Bedouin seem to like me and generally don't mind working when I ask. I think my tendency to enjoy a good sit down as much (or more) than the next guy must have a beneficial effect on our relationship. There are some tensions with the other white folks and not as many with me, and I therefore assume this makes me awesome.
We're still digging lots of trenches looking for the road or something approximating it and it turns out I'm quite an apt hand with a fas kabir (big pick). The Bedouin are always telling me to shway shway (basically chill out) I think because they know me smashiong through 6 cubic meters of soil means more shovelling for them.
Aside from that what else is there to say. Last 'weekend' was for napping, but I feel I may have written my previous entry on the weekend.
Paperwork begins shortly. Given the simplicity of most of my squares (rectangle in the sand....) these shouldn't take too long. I do have quite a few that need to be dealt with, however, so I should probably get on it sooner than later. Maybe tonight. Maybe.
Oh I did ride a camel today. His name is Boyman and both he and his owner Salim are fine individuals. Top notch. Fairly easy to ride, if a little focused on the ol' crotcheroo when the camel is doing its lean forward leg bending awkwardness so you can get off. A wonderful lope to their stride that ends up making your head bob as you cruise along.
Sorry if this is a bit disjointed, but I'm listening to a touch of DragonForce as I type. Nothing like some folk metal about swords and evil armies and shit to get you in a topper mood.
Aside from that it's been a lot of wandering Aqaba, taking pictures of Chinese massage parlors, chatting with people and doing far too many exertive (there's a new word) things in the heat. Maybe I should follow the lead of the locals? Maybe, but they're here forever and I'm almost done.
Friday, June 06, 2008
Just another week at shogul
So after all the excitement of last weekend, this weekend is more about naps and relaxing. Or at least today is, we're back on the one day weekend.
This past week at work (work=shogul, but I think it's more a verb/command than a noun judging byu how we use it with the Bedouin) was okay, but I was TIRED every day. Probably because of the heat, never quite being able to get enough/catch up on sleep and always finding something to distract me just before I crash out early.
Meh, whatever. I also think it might have something to do with the particularly mindless nature of my search for the road. There is no road as far as I'm concerned, at least not one we have found yet. The supposed road surface looks like a natural surface that stretches forever and one which I have exposed in repeated one metre wide, 6 metre long trenches all over the desert. Maybe an intersection? Maybe a parade square? Mumkin mumkin mumkin (mumkin=maybe). I shouldn't say just me, Swaylem and Ra'ad have been equally involved and are getting equally bored and frustrated. You wouldn't think being able to dust off some shitty brick would bring you joy or mental relief, but it's better than dusting off yet another arbitrary layer of hard packed soil before hacking through it another 10-15cm with the fas kabir (big pick).
It's alright.
I learned a cool Bedouin board game called seeja. I ;love how there are so many things you can do when all you have is a lot of sand and some different coloured pebbles. Without going to much into it, we're talking some ruiles similar to checkers but some real intense concentration required ... expecially when they set up the 7x7 board.
Also, I was told there's a car in Saudi called James. Really I said and Swaylem then proceeded to spell GMC in the sand. Lovely.
Lots continues to happen but it's the day to day kind of stuff and this time I have people to talk to about it so I don't tend to maintain my 'next blog' notes as extensively as in the past.
Soon I'll be hitting the road to Syria and Turkey and myabe Zoe will tell me to shut up...and if THAT happens there'll be blogs all over the place.
And don't forget (crass request for currency deleted).
This past week at work (work=shogul, but I think it's more a verb/command than a noun judging byu how we use it with the Bedouin) was okay, but I was TIRED every day. Probably because of the heat, never quite being able to get enough/catch up on sleep and always finding something to distract me just before I crash out early.
Meh, whatever. I also think it might have something to do with the particularly mindless nature of my search for the road. There is no road as far as I'm concerned, at least not one we have found yet. The supposed road surface looks like a natural surface that stretches forever and one which I have exposed in repeated one metre wide, 6 metre long trenches all over the desert. Maybe an intersection? Maybe a parade square? Mumkin mumkin mumkin (mumkin=maybe). I shouldn't say just me, Swaylem and Ra'ad have been equally involved and are getting equally bored and frustrated. You wouldn't think being able to dust off some shitty brick would bring you joy or mental relief, but it's better than dusting off yet another arbitrary layer of hard packed soil before hacking through it another 10-15cm with the fas kabir (big pick).
It's alright.
I learned a cool Bedouin board game called seeja. I ;love how there are so many things you can do when all you have is a lot of sand and some different coloured pebbles. Without going to much into it, we're talking some ruiles similar to checkers but some real intense concentration required ... expecially when they set up the 7x7 board.
Also, I was told there's a car in Saudi called James. Really I said and Swaylem then proceeded to spell GMC in the sand. Lovely.
Lots continues to happen but it's the day to day kind of stuff and this time I have people to talk to about it so I don't tend to maintain my 'next blog' notes as extensively as in the past.
Soon I'll be hitting the road to Syria and Turkey and myabe Zoe will tell me to shut up...and if THAT happens there'll be blogs all over the place.
And don't forget (crass request for currency deleted).
detritus
So it turns out when I've been yammering on about detrius for all these years I was just making up a word.
That's cool I guess.
I suppose this means I actually mean the detritus of time (thanks mum) but I'm hesitant to let go of my old word. Maybe language is ever evolving and I should just try and foist my new word onto the world.
That sounds about right.
That's cool I guess.
I suppose this means I actually mean the detritus of time (thanks mum) but I'm hesitant to let go of my old word. Maybe language is ever evolving and I should just try and foist my new word onto the world.
That sounds about right.
Sunday, June 01, 2008
It's been a while
Once again I lack the desire to write extensive posts. So tired. But so much has been happening.
We went out and about with one of our Bedouin workers, Ibrahim. He lives in New HUmayma and so it was a bit different than the experience we had camping. We hung out a lot in the 'men's' room, whihc was a big rectangle with lots of lounging couches, ate various delicious foods and drank various delicious teas and coffees.
Then we toured around the desert in a Toyota Hilux, checking out verious ancient cisterns and rock formations (rock bridge!) and generally enjoying one another's company. Pleasant all around. In the evening we had Mansaaf, a delicious but very intense Jordanian dish. Often made with lamb, this version had chicken on a bed of rice and a flat(sheet like) bread known as chiraq. It then gets drizzled with some mad crazy goat butten grazy business. The only word I can use for it is intense in all the salty, fatty ways you could ever imagine. Good but not an everyday necessity.
This past weekend was our two day weekend which meant some of us tore up country to check out Amman and environs. We got there late Thursday night, found a place and in the morning set out for Jerash, one of the larger and better preserved Roman towns around.
We had the place to ourselves (or at least it felt like we did) for much of the day and it was mega cool. Lots of pillars and theatres and even manhole covers!!!! All just oozing the detrius of time.(That's a new favourite term).
While we were sitting in one of the theatres a bagpiper appeared and played a jaunty tune. He was really good and they aren't lying about the acoustics in those places.
After Jerash myself and Kristin made a break from the rest of the group and headed to Madaba. I needed to remove myself from a travelling with 7 other people situation, trying to come to agreement on this and that and generally feeling slowed down and irritated. The Madaba trip was mega fun, complete with local bus sorintg out, explaining to a nice Jordanian fellow that I didn't know any women he could marry to get a visa for Canada, getting off the bus in an "I don't know where I am place" and most important sorting out a city by walking around it.
While in Madaba we saw mosaics, a lot of mosaics., Including that really famous on at St. George's church...whose name now eludes me. Do some research I'm sure you can sort it out. We also saw a lot of cool architecture. It's a generally fun, small city. Good for wandering.
The next day it was off to Mount Nebo, Moses mountain which he climbed, said "Oh shit, I think we're here" then died. Good work Moses! Then it was some coffee with our cab driver (Romanian wife) and a switch to his son's car for the ride to Bethany Beyond Jordan (Jesus' baptismal place). I'm not sure why JC was baptized into his own religion, but whatever.
It was a cool place. Not much to see but neat to be at. I have a nice picture of me pretending to pee into JC's baptismal pool which I think is super. I also have one touching the River Jordan and staring at the Israeli tour group 50 feet away. They appeared to be getting led around by a military jeep which i guess is necessary since they're actually in the West Bank when there.
After that we bid our cabbiew farewell, managed to snag a cheap ride in a local cab into Amman and then after getting out in an undetermined location managed to wander into the dowtown and startle ourselves when we turned around and found the Roman Theatre. Huzzah!
Once again the walk was mega cool. Gave me a better feel for the city than I had two nights before. I might not have liked Amman if that had been the only experience but the second go roundf was way better. Also because there was just the two of us and we just had small bags we were able to take things nice and slow.
Amman is a weird city that has grown up on a bunch of hills and is sort of linked to various refugee camps and suburbs that surropund it. There is still the distinct possibility of bumping into an old man on a donkey and his goat herd on the ourskirts and the downtown is all sorts of windy goodness.
We wanted to go to the citadel and knew it was up, so off we went. Found it and once again enjoyed ourselves. I don't think the old people trying to take pictures appreciated that we were napping in the shade of one of the pillars of the Temple of Hercules, but that's their propblem I guess.
I think I add to any picture.
We saw a museum up there (it's funny how all the Jericho artefacts were there...it took me a second to remember that whole war, land business) then some of the Abassid (maybe ummayad) structures here and there. They were filming some greased up guy for an IAAF promo. I took some photos of him to amuse myself and confuse them and thenh we ambled back to the bus station for our ride home.
Got in a bit later than I wanted, and was tired today but that seems fairly constant.
Work is going well. We seem to find the road and lose it on a daily basis. Unfortunately the material we decided was the road surface appears to stretch on forever and ever (20+ metres) and with only one edge revealed there is now confusion and doubt. We're changing tack tomorrow and starting a new square to the west (we've been goiung ever east previously) and are hoping to find some remains of a house.
Screw the road. Who needs it anyway.
K, that's it for me. Supper than an early bedtime would be ideal, but I'm sure I'll find something that will distract me and keep me up just a bit longer than I want. To some crazy let time like 930 or even...gasp...10.
We went out and about with one of our Bedouin workers, Ibrahim. He lives in New HUmayma and so it was a bit different than the experience we had camping. We hung out a lot in the 'men's' room, whihc was a big rectangle with lots of lounging couches, ate various delicious foods and drank various delicious teas and coffees.
Then we toured around the desert in a Toyota Hilux, checking out verious ancient cisterns and rock formations (rock bridge!) and generally enjoying one another's company. Pleasant all around. In the evening we had Mansaaf, a delicious but very intense Jordanian dish. Often made with lamb, this version had chicken on a bed of rice and a flat(sheet like) bread known as chiraq. It then gets drizzled with some mad crazy goat butten grazy business. The only word I can use for it is intense in all the salty, fatty ways you could ever imagine. Good but not an everyday necessity.
This past weekend was our two day weekend which meant some of us tore up country to check out Amman and environs. We got there late Thursday night, found a place and in the morning set out for Jerash, one of the larger and better preserved Roman towns around.
We had the place to ourselves (or at least it felt like we did) for much of the day and it was mega cool. Lots of pillars and theatres and even manhole covers!!!! All just oozing the detrius of time.(That's a new favourite term).
While we were sitting in one of the theatres a bagpiper appeared and played a jaunty tune. He was really good and they aren't lying about the acoustics in those places.
After Jerash myself and Kristin made a break from the rest of the group and headed to Madaba. I needed to remove myself from a travelling with 7 other people situation, trying to come to agreement on this and that and generally feeling slowed down and irritated. The Madaba trip was mega fun, complete with local bus sorintg out, explaining to a nice Jordanian fellow that I didn't know any women he could marry to get a visa for Canada, getting off the bus in an "I don't know where I am place" and most important sorting out a city by walking around it.
While in Madaba we saw mosaics, a lot of mosaics., Including that really famous on at St. George's church...whose name now eludes me. Do some research I'm sure you can sort it out. We also saw a lot of cool architecture. It's a generally fun, small city. Good for wandering.
The next day it was off to Mount Nebo, Moses mountain which he climbed, said "Oh shit, I think we're here" then died. Good work Moses! Then it was some coffee with our cab driver (Romanian wife) and a switch to his son's car for the ride to Bethany Beyond Jordan (Jesus' baptismal place). I'm not sure why JC was baptized into his own religion, but whatever.
It was a cool place. Not much to see but neat to be at. I have a nice picture of me pretending to pee into JC's baptismal pool which I think is super. I also have one touching the River Jordan and staring at the Israeli tour group 50 feet away. They appeared to be getting led around by a military jeep which i guess is necessary since they're actually in the West Bank when there.
After that we bid our cabbiew farewell, managed to snag a cheap ride in a local cab into Amman and then after getting out in an undetermined location managed to wander into the dowtown and startle ourselves when we turned around and found the Roman Theatre. Huzzah!
Once again the walk was mega cool. Gave me a better feel for the city than I had two nights before. I might not have liked Amman if that had been the only experience but the second go roundf was way better. Also because there was just the two of us and we just had small bags we were able to take things nice and slow.
Amman is a weird city that has grown up on a bunch of hills and is sort of linked to various refugee camps and suburbs that surropund it. There is still the distinct possibility of bumping into an old man on a donkey and his goat herd on the ourskirts and the downtown is all sorts of windy goodness.
We wanted to go to the citadel and knew it was up, so off we went. Found it and once again enjoyed ourselves. I don't think the old people trying to take pictures appreciated that we were napping in the shade of one of the pillars of the Temple of Hercules, but that's their propblem I guess.
I think I add to any picture.
We saw a museum up there (it's funny how all the Jericho artefacts were there...it took me a second to remember that whole war, land business) then some of the Abassid (maybe ummayad) structures here and there. They were filming some greased up guy for an IAAF promo. I took some photos of him to amuse myself and confuse them and thenh we ambled back to the bus station for our ride home.
Got in a bit later than I wanted, and was tired today but that seems fairly constant.
Work is going well. We seem to find the road and lose it on a daily basis. Unfortunately the material we decided was the road surface appears to stretch on forever and ever (20+ metres) and with only one edge revealed there is now confusion and doubt. We're changing tack tomorrow and starting a new square to the west (we've been goiung ever east previously) and are hoping to find some remains of a house.
Screw the road. Who needs it anyway.
K, that's it for me. Supper than an early bedtime would be ideal, but I'm sure I'll find something that will distract me and keep me up just a bit longer than I want. To some crazy let time like 930 or even...gasp...10.
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