Monday, April 11, 2005

goodbye and hello

I leave Japan specifically and Asia genrally tomorrow (April 12) at 620PM. I land in Vancouver tomorrow (April 12) at 11AM or thereabouts.

FUN! Bonus day for me. I'd better make the most of it. One of my April 12s will be spent sitting around at an airport unfortunately because Giuliana has to work and I'd rather sit at an airport than carry my bag around all day. Hopefully the other one will be spent on something constructive like struggling desperately to stay awake.

No last big proclamations for my literally hundreds of readers. Just if you're thinking about it, do it. SE Asia is pretty darned cheap and a lot of fun. The worst thing that can happen is you hate everything and just want to go home. But really that's pretty good because then you can tell yourself without a doubt that SE Asia (or at least certain parts because everywhere is very very different) is just not for you, and you can gain a better appreciation of whatever part of this rock you came from. If you don't like that place either?

Eat a lot of condensed milk and buy my book!!!! (whenever it gets written/published)

my one complaint

I'm going to try avoiding any grand assesments of Jaoan or the Japanese, as there are lots of those stereotypes of the culture and people floating around, and I don't need to reiterate. I will say though that if you ever some here be aware of the theiry that Japanese people are aware of teh stereotypes that the rest of the world holds and on soe level encourages a lot of them to seem more different. Just something I've read, and been looking for, but interesting to think about.

Anyway...my one complaint. When I was walking to the wrestling show the roads immediately surrounding teh Imperial palace were all closed (4-6 lanes so lots of empty tarmac.) Very good idea I thought, nice pedestrian Sunday. The only problem was if anyone went to walk across the road at a place that wasn't a normal pedestrian crossing or began to cross without the walking green man showing they were bellowed at by men with orange "staff" vests and megaphones. I'm sure it sounded worse than it was because of an apparent J perpensity to have to say a lot to express a little, but still.

Why close down the roads if people still have to cluster around lights and wait patiently, while staring at an empty road. Was it the cyclists tjat seemed to be spaced about 100m apart (not many in other words)? I don't know. But that kind of senseless "You must follow the rules" business can bug me, and I was tempted to walk across the road just for the heck of it. When he started yelling I wouldn't understand, but I could fake that so to realy make my point I should have run around in a circle with my arms out making airplane noises. Darn it!!!! Why didn't I do that.

Oh well we can't live our lives in the past can we?

Japan

Well I'm here, and stuff.

I'm not in the mood for a lot of detail right now (aren't I a grump?) so I'm going to just remember whatever I remember from the past week. If you have the good fortune to know or be related to Giuliana I think it'd be better to go with her accounts. She is a Japan veteran afterall.

First off, I have been staying with Giuliana, in her apartment, all oh I'd say 9 feet by 5 feet of it! And at 55000 yen per month (about $550 US) well, real estate isn't cheap, especially in this neighbourhood. She has to pay 100yen for 15 minutes of hot shower too, but everything else (including internet) is included. It's not so bad if you can get used to the size, but any great creations in the kitchen require patience and possibly lots of prep work in the bedroom.

While Giuliana's been working, I've done a lot of walking. Good time of year to do it as it is cherry blossom time and everywhere is just lovely. The weather has been really great, until today when it started to be cold and rainy so no complaints there either. I've seen the Sony store with all its fangled gadgets, including one TV that is constantly tuned to Canadian programming to demonstrate streaming over the internet from anywhere in the world. I was watching some shows being broadcast on the New VR (something Ontarians should be familiar with) and then the CBC feed was showing some curling. I watched, no one else seemed to care. Heh, whatever.
The Emperor's palace, it's big...and often closed, but I like the outer fortifications so that's okay.
I really like their various parking garage strategies, the giant narrow ferris wheel of cars inside a tall metal building is definitely a favourite and I just wish they would put a plexi-glasss front on the thing so I could watch them go round. Also they have lots of turntables in front of garages so you can drive in straight then rather than back onto the road you get spun around the right way when it's time to leave.

Tokyo keeps reminding me of 50s and 60s NYC. Well, at least pictures and video of the era, I wasn't really around at the time. After thinking about this I realized that the perception is a good one. I mean there was no Tokyo after WW2 and it was rebuilt in the 50s and 60s with I would assume a great deal of US influence. Buildings, subways etc. And every once in a while I see some fashions that make me think, "wait a minute, isn't that 50 years old?"

And yesterday!!!! I went to a wrestling show. Good times! Now most people won't know what I'm jabbering about with workrate or heels or faces or snap suplexes...so....I'll limit the nitty gritty. I will say that the whole event was treated in a much more ceremonial fashion than a North American show would be. They had teh drummers and conch shell blowers to open things along with torches and firepots at the ring's four corners that burned all evening. The rest was wrestling but that ceremonial bit intrigued me, and although I obviously haven't been here for long enough to know I think pro wrestling here is more closely attached to other martial arts, sumo etc than the NA equivalent could bne. There was as even a bunch of sumo guys out from training (hahahha) to take in the show.

Sunday, April 03, 2005

and the inevitable one more thing

Does anyone know why there is a peak season between Canada and Japan from April2-12 or thereabouts.

Me and the guy at Japan AirLines couldn't figure it out, but apparently it comes from teh Canadian end of things. The best I could come up with was winter is ending and people are going home, but that doesn't seem right for Japan.

A mystery!

Heading to japan

I'm off to Japoan tonight. Will spend a few days there then I'm coming to Canada. Have you heard of this country?

And that's all I have to say on that topic for now.

So that's how it's done

After pondering how one makes friends and acquaintances while travelling I was walking up the street and a guy simply came up behind me and asked if I was travelling alone (in a non creepy way).

He's just starting travelling and was lookiong for someone to get a bite to eat with. I was unfortunately dead tired and had to turn him down, but I think I managed to seem odd and haggered enough he was happy with my respoinse by the time we parted ways. He seemes pretty eager to run.

Who'd have thought it was jsut that easy.

Stuff in Bangkok

When I got here it wasn't as hot as I'd excpected. ONce again I had apparently brought a cool front with me. Just as I was thinking how awesome I was yesterday heated up a lot, turns out I'm only so good..

The other day I stopped to look at a map. Then I looked down, and there was the cutest dog ever. There are a lot of cool dogs here, mostly because they're strays and therefore are all mongrels. I alsways think that kind of dog is awesomest. But anyway. I looked at the dog (who was shading under a tree) and he looked at me. I said hello then as I went to leave the dog decided I looked like a fine fellow. Would have loved to have taken him home, except for the worms and fleas I'd likely give him, and Hannibal would be certainly jealous, but it is not meant to be.
So I had to pick up the pace and get a lead. He wasn't goping to speed up too much in the heat so I made it around a corner. When I looked back he was looking around a little put out but soon enough found an even shadier spot. SO everything worked out!

I also was in the neighbourhood (Patpong) so decided to look for all the nasty strip clubs and bars and seeedier stuff of Bangkok that is supposed to be a quite a sight. I guess I was in teh wrong neighbourhood, however, because I found nothing. Well that's a lie, I did see a bar called Boy Zone (or something like that) but that's hardly a thriving brothel district.

Some girls are hippies. Other girls have the hippy look. Like seeing a "Hippy" with a brand new Lonely Planet seems odd, passing girls that at first glance appear hippyish, only to have your sense blotted out by too much high quality perfume also seems odd. Heh, everyone has a look I suppose. As long as they stand by the whole free love thing I don't think anyone will complain.

Saturday, April 02, 2005

Food

Tha hardest thing about saying goodbye is going to be the food.

Especially here in Bangkok, where it is all so very cheap and there is such a diversity. The people I see sitting in restaurants munching on garlic bread and spaghetti...I dunno. I'd like some of thjat too but why bother when I can eat it at home.

I am currently trying to eat all the things I've eaten already, one last time. A noble cause but it can't be good for the waistline. Especially when you buy the huge pack of coconut puddings instead of the more logical smaller version. But they're sooooo good.

Along these food lines, the roti I find here just isn't the same as all the deliciousness available in roti form in Malaysia. They are so yummy down there, and bigger! Also, the preparation of rotis with the guys throwing the dough around stretching it out before folding it in on itself to fry is a sisght to behold. I thook a picture of a guy doing it here, but really should have taken on in Malaysia. When I got back here and watched one being made for the first time I was very disappointed. The skill just was not there. The dough rips, they don't stretch it as much...alas!

Good bye fruitshakes, and fruit and pad thai and rice porridge (that'll probably be in Japan mind you) and jelly ice sweets and rotis and sweet milk (I am buying tins when I get home) and all the other yummies. And goodbye to those low low prices.

And I finally had a REALLY good papya salad. I bought it from a lady with the whole 2 baskets setup (another important "last of" to get). I made sure to ask for no spicey and only got a touch of the dried sdhrimp fishy seasoning. It was REALLY good (as the other big REALLY above demonstrated). My fiorst papaya salad was in Bangkok early on, pre spicey knowledge and WOW! It was a tough sweaty lunch that I couldn't finsih followed that evening by...welll...yes. I also has another one in Luang Prabang but it was too fishy.

The only problem with stumbling upon a perfect salad this late in the game is the fact it makes me want top stay longer. Just for a salad! Now that's good!

Tuesday, March 29, 2005

Here I am

Man I hate it when things don't publish properly.

After making my goodbyes to all the staff that have cared for and fed me (this lamb stew, man alive!!!!!!!!!!!) in the Cameron Highlands I made my way to the island of Penang and Georgetown. Because Penang is an island and the bus companies sell tickets to it but also to Butterworth and other places on the mainland after a certain toll gate there is a horse trade that goes on in passengers. Buses stop and the drivers try to homogenize their loads.

I find the whole thing kind of funny, and today I had to switch buses, I was traded for an old lady, good deal for both sides I think. My new bus mus have been the plushest I have ever seen, unfortunately 40 minutes did not allow for full enjoyment. (No washroom though, odd).

I have a train ticket to Bangkok leaving at 220PM tomorrow so my next ommunique will be from there. Bet you can't wait!

I think the postings I did today were quite coherent, good for me! (except maybe this last one, but I had to rewrite it so you can forgive me)

This one really needs more thought

I'm just writing this so I don't forget later, but I really need to write some serious stuff on different kinds of travellers. Early on in my trip I was critical of various people for the way they travelled. Evetually I realized travel is what it is and different people do it in different ways. Everyone wants something different out of it and there is no right or wrong way.

That doesn't mean I can't laugh or shake my head at some people of course.

There's a certain traveller romance that I tend towards, one of eating like a local, low budget, learn the language and travel light. I have achieved some of this, and failed miserably elsewhere. BUt there are so many different types. I didn't consider a CD player and yet people have MP3 players, CDs, even a few portable DVD players. Lately I've come acros quite a few people travelling around with laptops. Backp[acks and all that but buried deep in their pack they have thousands worth of electronics. Hopefully if a thief has the choice between that and my smelly socks he makes the right choice, and leaves both our bags alone.

Something to think about to be sure.

And there is something strangely off about a full blown hippy, with bare feet and craazy huge dreadlocks, carrying a brand new briught yellow lonely Planet guidebook. Hippies are supposed to go with the flow. RIght? WHo knows anymore.

sandal tans, spiders and tiny bananas

I found the tiniest banana ever in a bunch I bought the other day. Perfectly formed but only a few inches long. Unfortunately before I thought to take a picture I'd already eaten it. Tasted like a full sized one.

I was looking at this cool spider web last night and trying to get a moth to fly into it when another one did. POW! That spider was on him like nobody's business. It's one thing to see it on the TV but watching him/her lay into the moth upclose and personal was something else.

I hjave been wearing my sandals pretty much non stop for teh past 5 months (except for a few treks or when I was up a mountain and it was cold). The result is a sandal tan that is so firmly in place....well it's pretty ridiculous. I don't know why any of this interests you, and if it doesn't skip this, but I was sitting an writing the other day then later I noted the white part of my foot had turned red. Eventually I clued in my one foot was in the sun under the table and had only burned the part that hadn't been exposed to much sun in months. It's like I'm part chamaeleon, part zebra and ALL JAMES! Yah! I'm a nerd.

Modernity and socializing

I have been a mmuch more personable person on this trip, at certain points. I noticed while I was in Indonesia I was the most social and outgoing. This was also the time when I was in the most self perceived danger. (Just me worrying about this that and the opther thing).

It got me thinking though, and I'm sure others have formed this better than I am about to, but so be it...early stages. Modernity allows people to be anti social brutes. Back in the cave man days you needed all your friends if you were going to bring down that wooly mammoth for supper. Now, no one is needed so people can fall back into their hidy holes and never come out.

Hmmm, I thought I had more there, oh well.

I noticed when I got back to Malaysia I fell back into less talking. I'm still doing alright and socializing but not to the same degree as I was in INdonesia. Malaysia is much easier to get around, with so much English spoken, and there isn't the same urge to find protection. Also the numbers of travellers are larger...maybe that makes it easier to hide.

In Bangkok, especially Khao San Road, there are sooo many travellers I wouldn't know where to begin as far as making friends. The guesthouses just don't have the same a shelter from the real worlds outside. The whole khao san area is a shelter from the real Bangkok and it's tough to make the personal connections.

One of many long winded essays to consider in the next while

Big Fish

If you have not yet seen this movie, I highly reccomend it. I saw it in Kingston and enjoyed it and I saw it last night and still enjoyed it. Great for all ages (younger people may need a bit of patience).

Rent it!

OKay, I'm okay

I felt this earthquake. I was awake at just after midnight local time and suddenly I was wondering why I was rocking. I checked under the bed and there were no large rodents or anything like that so I figured earthquake, and the next day (today) on the news I was right. Hopefully the earth will decide it's shaken Aceh enough and move off to somewhere else. Somewhere else that is preferably unpopulated.

This trip has really shown me some interesting what ifs. For instance I usually am not awake at midnight, but some people were being loud outside the dorm. I wasn't mad at them, I'm all zen these days, or at least I try to be, and it turns out they (and my head cold) kept me awake to feel my first earthquake. Also when I moved into my bed I was trying to decide to take the one I took whose joints were a bit loose, or a more solid one. Again, why pick loosy goosey? WHo knows but on my last night in the Cameron Highlands it all became apparent.

Tuesday, March 22, 2005

yep

I just noticed I used "ding dong" in two recent titles.

It has been a long strange journey.

And that's my excuse.

To the man who left a comment

AS far as playing in Hong Kong. That is one of the very good reasons I am interested in returning there for some time. The rugby is ridiculously well organized and looks like a grand time for all. However, for the time being I will not be playing in Hong Kong and will be back in Canada at the start of April.

Sorry once again for my confusing ramblings.

Don't know what I'll be getting up to over the next few days. A few walks and hopefully a lot of writing. Not much you folks would want to read so I'll save my internet pennies for the next little while.

Goodnight folks!

And now

Flew back on Cathay...no chocolate bar but they gave me lots of rolls and butter. MMMMMM that'll get a body bloated.

Then one night in KL, after asking at the airport if they had a lost and found...the lady was pretty useless so I figured I'd let the watch and watch band go. The watch band had been my keen army one with McRae 796 still written on the back. Oh well.

But this makes me think.

WHat is with information counters around these parts? Hong Kong's people at the tourneys always looked lost whenever I asked them something. "Are there Canada jerseys anywhere? I looked at the souvenier stand but none there." "The souvenier stand". Then at the airport, lost and found, and she pointed me towards the Malaysian Airlines luggage office. Maybe she just didn't know, or maybe that's a Malaysian idea of keeping customers happy.

I'm sure part of it is language and all that, but I feel there's also a certain level of not quite on the ball as far as customer relations go. Oh well. Maybe that's why Cathay was great. The customer is always right, even when the customer is a schmuck like me.

SO then I bought my train ticket to Bangkok, and I leave on that in one week. Until then I'm hunkered down in the Cameron Highlands once again. Felt a little warmer this time and the smells were a little more lovely. Last night upon having a 1AM stroll because I'd been woken by something it was very much a camping in Algonquin or at the cottage night smell. That's part of why I love it here so much, the smells remind me of all sorts of good things.
VERY VERY pleased that I have a train ticket booked all the way to Bangkok. Did it cost a bit more? Don't know, but I've come to realize $10 is a small price to pay for state of mind. But for about $37US in a sleeper on a 21 hour train ride....I don't feel ripped off.

Bits and bobs

My first day at the tourney I happened to be sitting near some Canadians. A visiting brother and his sister who had been recruited to Hing Kong 3 years before to teach yoga. Later in the day I also met the hubby and daughter. ANyway, they were a valuable resource on Hong Kong and where I got much of the information on previous tournaments etc etc.

The security guards. The sorriest bunch of security guards I've ever seens. Frail and not quite there people, men and women (out of shape, older etc.) that sat on their little stools staring at the crowd, not even flinching when things came close to them. I didn't see one do anything. There were some supervisors wandering who seemed to do things but that was it. The reason I mention them is they are symblomatic of something prevalent in Hong Kong, little people who think they have a big job. They take it very seriously and they DO NOT bend for anything. Most were too lazy but as I said the supervisors took this attitude to the extreme. Some inflatable toy bounces into their realm and BANGO! they snatch and the look I see on their face, like taking pleasure in stealing a child's favourite toy (a good analogy for drunk rugby fans).

Hong Kong is an expat centre without a doubt. Chinese things are around, but on the island most of the set up is for expats. Bars and pubs and restaurants all just like home. I think the whole sevens tournament is there as an excuse to invite other white folks over for a visit. Or at least originally. Pretty cool though, and once that whole school thing is out of the way maybe I'll have a look at Hong Kong for a job (teaching English or something) over Japan. It's a place that undoubtedly needs to be lived in to get a clue, like so many others no doubt.
It's kinda like Singapore but withan edge, and more road level pollution (good and bad respectively).

I'm losing my focus here.

Hong Kong, intereing. There are lots of explores within the SAR (HAHAHAHA Special Administrative Region) many of which I didn't get to. There's a giant Buddha walk I could have done, and on that same island (Lantau Hing Kong's biggest) they are currently building a new Disney Land. Yahoo! I guess they're looking for the Chinese market.

Again, since my thoughts are so muddled I'll tell you when I talk to you, or you can ask specific questions.

Jersey

I'm at the tourney, I'm for Canada I think I'll get a jersey. It would have cost a chunk but figured it'd be worth it. Of course it turned out it was impossible. previous years teh tournament sold all team jerseys, this year it was only World Cup merchandise and Hong Kong jerseys. Not terribly logical but maybe it was to remain impartial as the "World CUp" no idea. But wait. I was told of a rugby store in Stanley, on the other side of the island. I get on a bus, go through a mountain to Stanley, and the geniuses running the store had decided this would be a good time for renovations. Hmmmm.

When I was outside the store for all of one minute I saw three groups walk up specifically looking for the store. Oh well, I'm not their business manager.

Then I had to decide whether I should get a world cup jersey or something. After much soul searching I decided the only reason for the shirt was so people would know I'd been and I could tell them just as easily. I bought a toque because I lost mine earleir on in the journey and it was cheaper.

Oh the tortuous life I lead. The best way to make decisions on things like those jerseys is to put it off, eventually they only have sizes xxs-s available and the dedcision has been made for me. Some of you might ask, what about xxxxl won't there be that end of the spectrum available??? At a rugby tourney with a bunch of former prop forwards walking around??? I don't think so.

Canada's efforts

Started out great with a blow out of Hong Kong, but then we just didn't perform to expectations. It's very frustrating to watch the same pattern happen, game after game. Against a good team or one we should beat we start well. We look good and like we know what we're doing. But we always seem to have one mistake, generally one that takes what is a glorious scoring chance away from us. Then we start thinking about the mistake and bing bang boom, the score is way gone.

We made it to the bowl final (the bracket for teh losers after teh round robin) but lost to Italy in that. Oh well. If I can see what the problems are and teh coach seemed to be steamed and aware of it I'm sure it will be sorted out eventually. I don't want to have to lace 'em up and show how it's done but if I have too....

Did I mention I bumped into some of the team a couple days before the tourney started? Well I wished them luck, but I guess it only lasted the first game.

The tourney

The Hong Kong Sevens, an international and annual tournament which this year was also the World Cup. My first ever international sporting event. Tonnes of fun, but I feel not neccessarily a good example of an international tournament.

The reason I say this is the party atmosphere is a touch more prevelant in this tourney. Although it's a world cup, the whole thing only takes 3 days, because games are only 14 minutes long. It's a boom boom boom scenario and to tell yourself you're going to watch every game intently is a lie (or you're insane). You need food and washroom, and a lot of people suplement that with beer.

I came prepared with lots of snacks (and snuck in pop top tins of baked beans although cans are banned) so I wouldn't have to pay any of the exorbitant (expensive) food prices. And fruit and stuff too, but that apparently isn't banned. Why ban such things? Well this tournament has a tendency to encourage the throwing of items on the field from what I was told and heard. The corporate sponsors give out little soft rugby balls and various sift edged flying discs, not to mention various giant inflatable things that bounce around the crowds. These sometimes intentionally sometimes by chance make the field. Usually not aimed at players, but more likely the weiner security guards (more on them later). My personal fave things that were flying around the stadium though were the paper airplanes. People were refining designs over the course of teh tourney and it was fun to watch them float down from the upper decks, or sometimes dive straight into the fans below. If a game was particularly boring and a plane made it particularly far the fans would give a round of applause for its efforts.

From what I read in the paper this tourney was a bit tamer than most. Probably because it was the world cup. The "south stand" where the party is really supposed to be centred was apparently tamer, and the corporate boxes apparently had more of an exclusivity to them. Not that I was even allowed to go up the special escalator which gives access to the corporate areas. Thos guys gave out tonnes of swag though. There is nothing more frustratiing than watching people emerge with FREE rugby jerseys and scarves. I mean they're rich and important and therefor in the box, they don't need mopre free stuff. If I could have actually gotten a few jerseys I could wear them to practice in, not tshirts that risk being getting torn asunder at a moments notcie. Ah well. Some people didn't even get to go to the tourney so why do I complain.

Definitely a lot of fun had by all. But the tournament is very much an expat thing that some of the Chinese resdients take part in.

ding dong Hong Kong (heh heh that rhymed)

These blog things are getting to be such a chore. Wouldn't it be more fun if I just disappeared? No? Okay. I'll keep going.

Saw various sights in Hong Kong. Went up THe Peak again because it was sunny the day after my last post. Had to get that picture you know. Also went around Kowloon, the place right across the water from Victoria Island, and saw some neat things. I really like the markets they set up. It's a mall but in tents along the street. The bird market however is a little different. This particular bird market is in a park made especially for it. They sell birds and cages and all that jazz of course, but some people bring their birds to the park, just to take 'em for a walk and hang out with other birdies. I think they have singoffs some times but I didn't see any. Very pretty birds though. ANd all their dishes are like the blue and white porcelain one normally associates with China, but in ministuire for the birds. The fish market, and all its fish in plastic bags wasn't quite as cool. They didn't sing as well. The markets for fish and flowers and some other stuff are just clusters of stores along streets, all selling the same thing. At least you know where to go when you need something.

For some strange reason I really enjoyed the wholsale fruit market. Didn't buy a crate of oranges or anything like that, but it was cool.

I did various other things in Hong Kong and enjoyed a great Chinese restaurant I found night after night. Even tried to stick with vegetarianism as much as I could. But it's tough, salads stink, and one of the reasons I stuck with this Chinese place is because it had various delicious veggie options in LARGE quantities. I'm still eating meat, but if there's a viable veggie option I try to go with that.

I haven't been eating a lot of pasta dishes, instead I find rice is the ideal thing to go down with the veggies, just to make sure you feel full.

But back to Hong Kong. My sign off comment about British engineering a few days ago...the place is undoubtedly British and feels Vancouvery too. Probably because they're BOTH BRITISH! Genius. The trams and roads wedged in here and there between mountain and water are just great. When I went to Stanley on the ther side of the island, the narrow streets, and grocery stores in old buidlings gave me the Britain feel. Vancouver received its thoughts (maybe North and West V.) from the roads wedge between mountain and ocean and the beaches here and there. I know I'm not making too much sense but thems the breaks. I'm actually writing this paragraph after writing the rest of this entry and all the others so I'm a little mentally fatigued, or something.

Tuesday, March 15, 2005

Cathay Pacific

Okay, a flight under 4 hours and they gave me all sorts of goodies.

I had actual ice cream with my meal. A tub of Hagen Daze. Yummy. And that was after the meal with fruit and a chocolate bar.

My only complaint, isn't their fault at all. I forgot my watch in teh KL airport. I think it might be a bit of a pain, but hopefully only a bit. I only use it to check the time when I'm in a dorm room and can't tell what time it is. Should I get up or not...always a big issue. Or when I'm on a bus I can look at it and stress about arrival times.

Still it would have been much more helpful, NOT to lose it.

Hong Kong here

I know I wasn't going to use the internet, but my budget mindset has flown RIGHT out the window. I'm at a Pacific Coffee shop and they have free internet for customers. I bought a tea, but I think I should have gone with hot chocolate.

Heh, oh well.

Lovely city, reminds me a lot of vancouver. What with the mountains, water taxis, mist and temperate climate. I'm on top of "The Peak" which is not actually the peak, but simply the area they've decided to flatten out and develop on teh main mountain on the island itself. Because I only have 2 days to explore before rugby starts I've been wandering the city today and tomorrow I'll hit up Kowloon. SHould be peachy.

There are oodles of curio shops, if you're into ancient Chinese treasures, or even ones that are acssociated with Mao and friends. Lots of those too. I'm a particular fan of the China dolls (hahaha China) of various worker heroes, riding rockets and waving joyfully. The escalator is pretty fun. And SOOOOOOOOOOO long. I think it's the longest one in the world. It isn't all one huge escalator just a whole whack of smaller ones slowly making their way up the hill. Honk Kong is a really steep city in places, with some interesting views down,through all the Chinese shop and restaurant signs.

Of course given the choice of riding the tram up or walking I'd prefer the tram, but budget haasn't left me totally so, I hiked up the hill, uggh. Love that old British engineering though.

Sunday, March 13, 2005

Hong Kong bound

That's where I'm going tomorrow. I think I might skip internet from there, unless I have some excess currency to deal with. If I do skip expect no updates until one week tomorrow. Tuesday the whatever that turns out to be (22nd?)

Hrrrm. ANything else? No? Okay, have a nice day.

Melacca, Malaka, Ding dong

Lovely place this. ALl sorts of history, as one would expect giving how many times the place changed hands. Malakan to Potuguese to Dutch to British to Dutch to British to Malaysian, to James. Uh oh. Don't worry I'll give it back.

Nice town, and although I thought I wold run out of things to do I managed to walk slow enough to spread things out the whole time I was here. Having the crazy Italian helped too.

I shouldn't say crazy, I should just say Italian, because we are talking serious stereotype. I'll specify even more, southern Italian. Mother loving, bachelor for life rich playboy whose gotten old kinda fella. He's quite a person. Tough to follow and even harder to get away from but he takes up time. I now know too many details of his life to go into it now but yikes. Formerly received a few thousand a month from teh family businesds, since bankrupt. His new allowance has forced him to stay in Malacca for three months, saving enought o fly out. He has an ear problem, toe problem, robbed by a fake tourist, lost his prized negatives and finds backpackers here very standoffish. He thinks that why he's been talking so much. It's all been bottled up, a feeling that I'm familiar with. But since in 4 days he's showed no signs of slowing down, I think it must be a pretty big bottle.

That vegetarian restaurant I've been eating at is the bee's knees. At RM1 a meal it's kept costs down but it's also pretty darn healthy. If there was something like that at home I'd be a vegetarian in a second (except for once in a while). I honestly thing the reason I don't consider a change like that is simply laziness.
It's run by Buddhists who just think vegetarianism is super! Now that I've been going there for a while the people that run the place know me and we chat most times I come in. It's very nice.

It also has had some other...interesting??? consequences. Now I'm not saying my shit doesn't stink, but it's kinda nice these days. Like there's a flowery hint to it, very pleasant. How do I know what my poop smells like? Well, I just do okay. ;)

Wednesday, March 09, 2005

apologies

I once again need to apologize for how difficult my entries are to follow sometimes. I think the main cause behind this is the space between entries means a lot of info needs to be written and, well, I just get a little crazy.

If there is anything people need clarification on, please feel free to use the feedback functiona s I do generally have a quick peak at my more recent entries to see if anyone has left a comment.

Where am I now

I'm in Melacca (or some other variant on that spelling). Seems like nice place, but I have a feeling I'll run out of things to do before my time here is up. Oh well, at least I'm saving money. There's a vegetyarian restaurant here that cost NOTHING. Pay by donation actually, and I shall, but it will still be kind to the bottom line.

There's an old crazy Italian in my dorm, and it gets cool here at night.

Hmmm, anything else.

Oh and some random guy on a bike offered me a position as a lecturer in English Literature at Southern College, in Johor Bahru, on the souther tip of Malaysia. I had to politely decline.

Maple leaf

I'm going to think more and write soomething more in depth on this later, but you are privileged to witness a sneak preview working paper.

The maple leaf on a travelling Canadians pack is a tried and true sterotype that needs to be brought to a close. Travel to meet people and experience things and by wearing the flag you automatically open yourself up to preconceived Canadianisms befoire you can establiush yourself. People might think you;re an American??? ALl the better, when the person finds you're Canadian they have to blast apart all of what they thought you were when you were a Yank, and they won't be able to slot all the Canadianisams in because you'll have become a person.

It just seems to me that people should meet people. Common humanity and all that. Denmark doesn't need to meet Canada, that's what politicians are for.

It's okay to be a proud Canadian but a flag can't demonstarte that as well as you can.

I met a Vancouver roofer named Rees (who apaprently can make 80-120000 a year depending how hard he wants to work) and discussed this and other things with him on a brief bus ride. During this talk I relaized so many of the travelling Cdn stereotypes, the type more liekly to appear in Bangkok and Singapore than the back woods of Java, complete with silly coral necklace, Cdn hoickey hat etc etc. or what I will have to call of the beer ad school of nationalism. That is they were Canadian before the I AM molson ads started, but now they're CANADIAN, involved in an ongoing struggle against the American cousins who don't even know of the conflict.

Perhaps that made no sense, but some day it really will. Canadians aren't Americans it's true, but like them we are VERY loud people. We just don't think so because of how loud the lads down south are. (something like that was expressed in the book "Why I Hate Canadians" written by a proud Canadian upon his return from a 5 year stint in Japan. Somrhting I will read again)

Indian sweet shops

Oh man that is some good stuff that will be missed.

Indonesia, again, but really quick

I was thinking while having a shower the other day, and maybe Titanic (the movie)and its remarkable worldwide success came about from Celine's popularity and the heavy use of her song for advertising the movie in ASia???? HMMMM.

Also, in Indonesia there are all sorts of random little jobs. Guys will stand at parking areas and intersections doing at times necessary, and at other times not, actions of assisting drivers do whatever they're trying to do. Drivers then roll down windows and drop a few ruppiaj their way. As Agung said, it's better than them doing nothing.

Thoughts part 2

Dang. I think something failed to go through so I have to type this again. No patience the second go round.

Nope it worked.

Pennies, I think they may exist in Singapore, but when I bought two items that should have come to 5.76 they came to 5.75 because they automatically dropped the cent, at least at that store. I support it! Reinvest the money used to make pennies elsewhere!!!

Thoughts (technology, newspapers, supermarkets, and movies)

It's nice to look at skyscrapers that aren't all concrete rectangles. Also, I was thinking how boring the domestic baggage collection area is in Toronto. It really is bland. Yes it's just for bags but a little extra effort in architecture can go a long way to making a good first impression on a new arrival. MAybe the international area is pimped out, but I don't remember it being particulalry nice.

Back to Singapore

Well Singapore does have some hitech stuff, but a lot of it is just cleaner and newer than what we have at home. The subway and buses can be paid for with a card that you put money on. I only mention this because I got a kick out of being able to swipe it without removing it from my wallet, and watching some of teh smaller ladies hoist their big bags to the sensors was also mildly amusing.
The car park at one mall had a constantly updates sign at the entrance that showed how many spots were available on each level and which ones were full. Of course I didn't have a car and don't know if it was digital sensors or man/lady keeping track of things but I watched it for a while and I think it must have been digital Very cool. And yes, I am a doofus standing there watching a car park readout change.
In the mall there were things called travellators. An escalator, but it's a ramp!!! I had never seen this before and it's actually not terribly good for the dpwn direction. Pressure oin the joints and the thing moves so slowly it feels like you might fall over your feet before you reach the bottom if you arenb't careful. Stiull, fun, and the shopping cart jockeys can wheel their carts down here rather than...who knows what.

Going to a supermarket, like one at home, not one of the crowded odd ones I've been to in Phnom Pehn orBangkok is a bad idea when you're on a budget. Unless you find the free samples. I can't believe I never noticed THAT before. Of course after scarfing as much bread and chicken on toothpicks as possible I actually bought a loaf instead of the planned box of cookies, so I guess their scam worked! It was good though, and filling.

The Straits Times, Singapore's main Englkish paper is solid. It seemed to have balanced coverage on the country region and the world as a whole. It even had mention of the Mountie shootings at home. If only all papers could be so well maintained....

I went to see a movie in Singapore. I figured it's an urban place and urban people see movies. And It was AC and I wqanted to see a movie. Constantine...it was pretty good. But the really weird thing for me was the assigned seats. I bought my ticket and the girl told me she'd put me in seat F5. Oh! She assured me it was a good seat and she was right. It even had an overweight fellow sitting beside me scarfing nachos, and finishing the whole plate before the movie had even begun. Just like home.

Definitiley more people able to eat more food in Singapore.

Singapore

Well it is certainly something else. But because of it's very western nature there's only so much I can say about it.

The various attractions are, how shall I put this, more refined than what I've seen elsewhere. Kinda like the white bread they fed me at my guesthouse fopr breakfast every morning. Fills you up for a bit but in the end it plugs you up and gives you gas and the runs. How's that for weird, the most significant stomach troubles I've has on the trip so far start when I'm in the cleanest and health wise safest place I've been. Don't worry though aside from feeling blkoated after eating and teh occassional sitdown in the evenings (not even particularly urgent opf course) it wasn't much.

I think that's all you want to hear about me and the old bowels.

The food in Singapore, I didn't like it as much. Maybe the above had something to do with it but I think it's the fact when I ate in a food court I was eating massed produced foods, complete with chemical sauces and garnishes. Something I haven't seen in a long time. Just didn't taste right. There wqas some good stuff too, but the stuffed \Indian breads were too far for me to enjoy regularly.

Ya, the sights. I went to some very new, very high tech museums, but opted out of some toiurist attractions, because of the costs buit also just because they didn't appeal that much. Yes, I like history and military history in particular, but paying $8 to look at mannequines posed just as the soldiers would have been when the Japanese were invading just didn't seem right. Also, the city is set up with so many information boards on various sites and events that one can just walk around and find out everything they would if they went to one of these places. So I was able to keep costs fairly low.

As far as some walking tours, I believe gentrification is the word to use here. China town was row after row of lovely Chinese houses, refurbiushed and freshly painted and full of restaurants,boutiques and various professional offices. Still, lovely to look at. Apparently one of the streets I was on used to have a roaring prostitution trade, but they seemed to have cleaned that up. I can't beliueve this place used to be so rough around the edges, and only 30 years ago.

Perhaps the best example of gentrification is in the CHIJMES complex. This little beauty is an old Catholic orphanage and nunnery that was slated to be torn down but instead was redeveloped into expensive stores and restaurants. This place is FANCY! Now this kind oif thing used to make me go ape, but I suppose it's better to have the architecture preserved. Not everything can be kept "as it was" forever. Seemed like a nice plkace when I walked through.

That another thing I noted, there are many many restaurants and places to get a drink, here, there, along the waterfront. Whereever it is picturesque. At home I never went in fdor that kind of stuff, or at least very rarely. Due to lonerdom, but also cheapness, but seeing it in Singapore I could think of nothing nicer than to sit down with some friends. This might siimply be me looking towards Canada all the more excitedly????

Thursday, March 03, 2005

one and two

1) I did NOT win the CBC Literary Award this year. That's okay, just my first kick at the can. Thank you to all who lent their editing skills, dining room tables, basement bedrooms and supreme culinary skills to my efforts. They were not in vain.

2) I have been accepted to Queen's University in Kingston Ontario (again). This time it's for a Masters of Arts degree within the faculty of Geography (cartographic history). Sounds like a gas.

Travelling and Singapore

I'm still having lots of fun, but I've gotten off the hyper extreme super duper crazy budget thing. It's not that I'm spending more money, it's just that when I have to take a cab because it's after dark, and I'm 10km from where I want to be I don't get as worried about it.

Also I'm still happy to be on the road, but my moments of reflecting upon home seem to be a little more warm each time I have them. One month to go...

Hrrrrm, what else to say. My skills at travelling although surely superior than most from the start have improved. Destressing is the key.

While I still get into a bit of a tizzy when I spend too much money, it's nowhere where it used to be. I bought an EZ link card for Singapore public transit, but I'd have to do about 50 trips to make back the $5 cost of the thing. Oh well, I am now able to say. At least I don't have to fiddle with coins IF I take a bus (subways are easy because you're in the station and at a machine when paying). It's a good lesson though. The Lonely Planet said it was a good deal so I bought it, although the price structure quoted had changed and the lady selling tried to warn me off. Don't get stuck in a book or it will be your downfall.

Singapore is rough, one slip up and it's a significant amount of money gone. The city is CLEAN and EFFICIENT and whatever any one has ever said about it. I haven't explored to much but I look forward too it, and hopefully won't be spending too much in the process.

I think I've scored the perfect digs, S$10 dorm bed (1 singapore dollar is about 1.3 CDN I think) and they have breakfast included. Unlike other places with an included breakfast (tea, bread and jam) they have bread and butter and jam and peanut butter and eggs and hot dogs and fruit and veggies....writing it like that sounds like a lot. It isn't but it's more than I'm used to and one fewer meal to pay for in the day (2 if I eat A LOT). Unfortunately it's those simple carbs that will get me, love their white breadd and biscuits over here.

Another thing I've noticed, which I haven't seen since Bangkok is people looking pretty. Like girls that have taken some time in the morning, and guys who have their clean caps and whatever style of necklace. Just people you'd see at home but they're here. For a while the people I have been seeing have a definite traveller's edge to them.

With that observation, and a few choice words from Agung, I've realized lately I need to watch my smell a bit more. I'm used to being with me in a room and I bathe everday so I'm fine. Well not if you're around sweet smellers and pretty people. Jeepers. They even give you a nasty look when you fart.

Tidy up INdonesia.

Agung's family had a servant, and so did his brother, they had 2 actually. Seems to be the thing to have if you can afford it. The servant, who Agung said was a "relative" made food. Agung must think giant westerners need to eat all teh time and in huge amounts. He kept putting stuff in front of me a giving me larger servings than himself. I really had to get mad and yell at him (not too loud) to stop. It was getting silly, and I felt bad only eating part of my food. Fortunately the food was usually served rice then a bunch of plates you picked from. If I had control I was fine.

Es Jalur and other delicious iced snacks. Those were good and I will miss them greatly.

Indonesia is NOT as dangerous as people sometimes (the government) thinks. I think it is near the top for favourite place on the trip. Battling it out with Laos perhaps. And I only saw Java, there's so much more.

I think that's it for now. A lot happened to me in Indonesia, life changing stuff that may have been on the way anyway, but that's where it happened so it gets the good memories.

Jakarta

So big scary Jakarta (which is te most dangerous place in Indonesia), is surviveable. The port is cool, and the maritime museum was fun.

The old Dutch buildings were just lovely.

The train ride, that was golden. I'm talking ekonomi, and all the locals who talked to me "why are you on this train? The other one is AC and faster and less crowded." I couldn't make them believe I was trying to save money.
It certainly was a hot ride once the people atarted piling in, but heh, it was fun. ALl the vendors walking the aisles selling everything! The toys and inflateable swim rings aimed at the kids to razors and nail clippers. Even atlases and dictionaries. Funny stuff. My favourite though was a pink cell phone with a barbie looking character on it called "benign girl" HMMMM.
And of course there were foods and drinks.

Leaving Bogor on teh airport bus, I hs some good views over Jakarta from teh toll road. It is on really packed place, and there's a lot of dirty stuff. Not much room so the power lines (big pylons) tip toe through housing areas (not along green belts or anything). People have set up houses underover passes. They look just like any other street, with a local store and what not, but it's under a road.

I nevr stayed there over night so I can't judge I suppose, but when I was there my lungs ugggggh. Not pleasant.

Oh, and a quick thing I went to the mall with Agung and his friend, they needed to get something. So clean and ACed and different from everywhere else (and it was the plain mall apparently). Agung's friend works for a discount airline that has been having a price war on domestic flights in Indonesia and is teetering on the edge of bankruptcy, he has a wife and an 8 month old son and is considering his employment options. Indonesia, Canada it's all the same.

bus to bogor

So this bus, the fancy AC kind was rolling along for a little while. I was pleased, having slept on the train (it is a BIG thing for me to be able to get sleep on a n anything while sitting up, at the start of the trip that just never would have happened), and was the fact that bus prices are PRINTED on the TICKETS so I know I'm not getting ripped off, it just warms my heart.

Unfortunately some belt broke and the us fillewd with smoke and we were stranded roadside for an hour until they decided they couldn't fix it and started putting us on other buses that were passing. A fella named Agung started chatting with me while we waited and we got put on abus together and the chat continued.

Arriving in Bogor, I was invited to his house. Hmmmmm, what to do. At first I resisted mostly because as much as I'm not longer super loner I still have tendencies. But then I accepted. Once again I don't think I'll bother giving all the details here, but he's kinda middle class, has quite a few siblings many of whom seem to be involved in medicine and is just a fine fellow.

Hmmm, I kind of want to tell you all about the family and the observations and comparisons I made between his life my life, Endro's life. That can come in the debriefing I have upon return, or simply forward your list of questions to my email address and I will respond in time.

After the Botanical Gardens the next day Agung was heading to Jakarta so I went with. The pan was to drop me near the backpacker area, but because there were fuel price marches going on we went to his various family places first. Sister-in-laws mother and his brothers houses. At some point I or he suggested I stay with him until I left, so I did. That night we stayed in J at his brother's (a gynecologist who judging from his hours works very hard, and has a wonderful family). The next morning I was dropped at the harbour/old part of the city then caught a train to Bogor in the afternoon.

So many things I could say about what was talked about, and what I did with the kids and bserved. We discussed cultures and medicine and showed finger tricks to the kids and stuff........... I can't even get started.

VERY GOOD. I'll say that.

So, when I left you.

I was in Yogya trying to decide whether I should call Endro. The opportunity to interact with the locals would have been cool but I decided against it.

However, get this. We all know James. Loner and anti-social man extraordinaire, well guess what. Change is in the air. I started talking to people at my Losmen and not burying my nose in a book. I chose to hang out with a few people there and particualr my new Swedish friend Freddie.

Tremendous fella, lots of fun.

We toured some of Yogya, including the Kraton (apparently they have a SHITTY part that I saw before and a good one in behind) and thje old water palace again. I missed the underground mosque cool tunnels, swimming pool and the king's meditation area. WHat was I doing there before? The meditation to y untrained eyes looked like a big washroom complex with bath stalls and fancy toilets, squatter toilets but fancy just the same.

Three days in Yogya, and we rode the train together to Bandung where we shook hands, embraced and went our separate ways, until I go to Sweden that is!!!!!

I'm very excited about this interacting with humans business.

From Bandung I took a bus to Bogor. First though I caught a bus to the bus station, I only mention this because that thing was PACKED!!!! Heh, fun! And no one picked my pocket. The warnings for that are constant but I just never was under threat.

Safe and sound

Well, I know, I've been safe and sound the whole trip but now I feel pretty good as the last month looks to be pretty smooth sailing. Places like Singapore (here now) and Hong Kong, and also Malaysia and Thailand. I've done them before so I'm rocking though.

So as I said I was pretty nervous about the whole Indonesia thing. Why? Well a quick look here might explain.

http://www.voyage.gc.ca/dest/report-en.asp?country=130000

The third paragraph of section 2 explains my nerves. It basically says Canadians shouldn't go to Indonesia at all. HA! I said. I emailed the embassy and although the guy couldn't o against the official vibe I got a definite feeling that it was okay, so I went. At least now I can say I've been somewhere on teh forbidden list!!!!!!
Didn't want to mention it until I was out, seeing as people might get worried.

These warnings must be part of (al;ong with the new pay visa requirements) that have knocked a lot of foreigners out of Indonesian tourism. Makes you think though, there are places in London that are really dangerous and sometimes there are bomb threats made against particular places, but no one says DON"T go to Britain!!!! Avoid the nasty bits and it's pretty safe.

And I had a tremendous time! As I will detail.

But to finsih up this entry, the Indonesian news as I was leaving was full of protests over the governments fuel price increases (and possible transportation cost and gereal inflation increases), Malaysians expelling illegal wqorkers (mostly Indo) and the Malay and INdo navy sending ships to some disputed oil rich area. I made it to the bus station for the right cost and flew between the two countries without incident. Maybe I left just in time?

HA! I'm going back tomorrow.

Hmmmm

Just trying to read over some of those wonderful scattershot entries that I put in. They look a little out of order, and some might be missing. SO!

Here's what the order should be, and I'll try and straighten them out.

Indonesia, waited at train station, Yogya, Borobodur and Prambanan, Endro, Bromo, then back to Yogya.


-----

Well, I did it. Some of the entries are what I did and some are those pithy observations I'm so renowned for. I'll let you work out which are which, bottom up is the order. Contiunue to enjoy!

Thursday, February 24, 2005

Back to Yogya

This writing is really tiring me out. Came back to Yogya and despite my best efforts to travel like a local, I tried to save time and wasn't pleased with the way everything worked out. Then I sillily lost my head when someone had moved my bag andd forgot to tell me.

Anyway, I was very pleased with how quickly I calmed myself and turned a negative into a positive. I was going to go to Dieng Plateau (more valcano stuff) but decided to hang in Yogya for a few days and see if I can get in touch with Endro and maybe go to his house for a night. I'll tell you if that works out.

Sorry for the limited detail but heh, too bad. I tooka cab from the bus station to my hotel, it's amazing how easy travel can be when you aren't working up in your mind how important saving money is all the time.

What's particularly frutrating about here is there are no posted fares anywhere. You are at the whims of the guys on the bus, and only if you're REALLY sure about the actual fare or have someone helping you can you really go at it full bore. Oh well.

Also, one of my greatest travel insights ever! (take it for what it is). When I lost my head about my bag and yelled "where's my bag?" some of the vendors around laughed and mimicked me, in the stress and all I turned and actually flipped them the bird (very regretful). Immediately after as I stewed on the bus my mind thought things along the lines of , "Ya so what, you're poor and I'm fromt he west and you want to be me". Then I stopped, realized what a ridiculous thought that is, superiorioty over the saveage and all that. It would be like walking up to a lion in the jungle, ya you have teeeth and claws and all but over time humanity will cut down the jungle and only let lions live in zoos, and then he would eat me. No matter how great the west might be I'm on their turf.

Insightful? You bet.

EGO!

I just have to mention. WHen I asked Endro and Andri why everyone wanted a picture with me, asked just after I posed with 5 successive girls then with the group of them and me together (12 year olds so don't think I'm trying to show off).

Their possible reasons included

-I'm tall
-I'm handsome
-maybe they think you're a movie star.

Think I'll have to come back to this Indonesia place some time

tourism in Indonesia

Tourism here has undergone a decline in recent years. From its height in the mid 90s it has gone down, and hasn't been helped in recent years by the introduction of a visa that needs to be paid for (I assume to get American currency to the government).

Arriving in the backpacker area of Yogya was really surreal. It's all here, the resytaurants an dthe guesthouses, and the used bookstores but the tourists aren't there. Well they are but just not very thick on the ground. There are ups and downs I've seen but a lot of times people just sit in their own empty restaurants watching the HBO they have on to get someone in.

Yet every morining it seems people wake up and open their shops and sweep things out. Maybe today will be the day... I suppose part of the strangemness for me comes from being from a place where you need good turnover and high occupamcy or the copsts over overhead and taxes will kill you. I'm guessing people here are more paid for and do all the work in places themselves so those costs aren't there.

Om Bromo it was very odd sitting in the restaurant the first night and watching just how bored the staff was. Attentive when they needed to be but very "man this is dull when they weren't called upon. WHile I was up there I'll just mention here I ate at a family's little restaurant everyday. SAved some money and made friends enough to practice a bit more INdonesian and find out about the bus situation. (Indonesian/Malaysian -almost the same- is by far my post prolific language so far. I ahve numbers!!!)

But at the same time there seems to be quite a few Indonesian tourist about. So I'm sure everyone will get by okay in the end.

smoking, troubadors and vendors

Smoking is big here. It's big in most of Asia that I've seen but they don't even have a pretext of it not being so here. I mean when I was at the immigration point in the airport one of the guards was smoking. Bus drivers (on city buses especially) smoke, and the guy beside me in the internet cafe is puffing away.

There are coins in 50, 100 and 500 ruppiah denominations but anything below the 500 is tough to find a use for. There is an economy that has sprung up around this at red lights and bus stations. People will walk the rows of cars or jump on buses, sometimes with a guitar or ukelem sometimes with just their voices and sing whatever. Local songs to pop stuff. Sometimes it's just a kid with a metal rattle who stands outside a window until the driver is irritated enough to pay. When the bus starts rolling they produce a cup or envelope and collect coins before jumping off again. Quite a few people give.

I have a picture of one guy singing but might need to get a guitarist to really demonstrate it. Sometimes there are pictures I feel I NEED to tell the story of my trip...we'll see.

Vendors. They also do the ol' jumping on the bus trick. SOmetimes they just work the statiuons and get off before nthe bus leaves other times they ride for one stop. They hand out their wares and come back and collect it again or the money. You can by candy, nuts, newspapers or cell phone ringtones in this way. Weird.

Gunung Bromo

Whew, this is a lot of writing.

SO Gunung means mountain. Gunung Bromo is a CRAZY AWESOME VOLCANO. Part of a series of crazy awesome volcanoes within a larger crater. Don't feel like detailing it all here, but man was it awesome. I stayed on the edge of the crater and went for early morning walks. I saw the whole sunrise business and found another crater where I spelt my name out on the crater floor in big volcanic rocks. Ooodles of fun times.

Could have ridden in jeeps or on horses but chose my feet as usual. Crazy. The farmers up there are hard working, of course, even clever (I thought because I wouldn't have thought of it) to plant their crop rows on angles so they never had to walk straight up the crater wall. The weather up there was great. At night you copuld see the lightning flashes of the storms moving around the crater's edge, but we were high enough to avoid most of them. And watching various mists and clouds roll in. So much fun!

The pictures will tell it all I'm sure (because I sure did take a lot). The frustrating thing with places like that is every point in the day with the changning light I'm always wondering, should I take another one now???? I should get a digital and for my sanity I think I will have to before my next trip. Take 400 pics then loook at them and edit them down. AWESOME!

On my way up the hill I made the silly error of opening my bag in the dark van and my sunglasses must have fallen out then. Possessions are fleeting and they really should have been lost or broken before now, but it's still frusttrating. It happened when the bus driver was trying to convince me I would enjoy staying in a hotel 2km down from the crater rim. I stuck to my guns and was driven up without too much hassle, but the glasses, oh the tragedy!

Random

In my guesthouse (Losmen as they are called here) I met a Labanese fellow while I sat on teh balcony sipping my morning tea, I've become quite the teaist recently. As I said he is from Lebanon and get this, the manager of his country's first Second Cup franchise, open 8 mos. What are the odds of him finidng me, a Cdn (Second Cup being a canadian company of course). Cool.

I am south of the equator for the first time in my life. This was very exciting and I of course wanted to check out the whole water floeing backwards thing. Now I found this truly amusing and maybe you will to, but because all the toilets are Asian squatters and not flush NA style I had no where to check the rotation. HAHAHA I say. Eventually I found a sink, filled it then brushed my teeth into it to make sure I had a good visual. The water goes clockwise, however that compares.

During this period I was very much "I shall rewturn one day and give Indonesia more of my time and attention". Isn't that quaint.

Prambanan and the adventure that followed

S o there I was at Prambanan temples, having bravely taken the local bus oncce again to save the big bucks and let me do things at my own speed. With all the warnings of pickpockets it is a bit worrisome but generally no buses have been crowded to warrant fear. I was cominf down from my first explore around the main temple, looking at the statues in four different rooms and giving a few rubs on them for good luck, then IT began.

I noticed at Borobodur the other day people love having me in their pictures. Maybe they would love any tall white person, but I'm the only one around so they love ME. Some people asked to take my picture and some other people just kind of joined in without asking (I'm going to set up a bopoth and charge I think). Then Ias I hit the ground I was swarmed. An entire English class that visits the templese regularly to find foreginers and p[ractice with. ABout 30 were around me and they started asking all sorts of questions...thoughts on pollution, living in Canada, my name (Cyril of course!), and tonnes of others, too many to get down here. Some realy random ones (Has anything exciting or strange happened on your trip? "Yes" "what is the most excitiong or strange thing that has happened in Indonesia?" "I've been here three days" "what are your thoughts on tsunamis?" "Ahhhhhh, they're bad?" ANd so on. Eventually I had to politely say I'm here to see the temples so excuse me, and after getting a picture with the whole crew off I went. 2 guys from the group Andri and Endro asked if they could come around with me and I said sure.

Before I forget the temples were nice, and they really put a lot of effort into making a nice park in the surrounding area, still not wirth $10 though.

We walked and talked and eventually Andri tired and begged off when I was heading to Boko Palace. Endro tagged along and when I got there Iand found another $10 admission I said HA! and left. At some point Endro asked if I'd like to come back to his village to meet the parents and broither and so on.

After some thought I said yes.

Apparently they get some bonus marks if they can get a foreigner to come to their class, but I was moving on so unable to do this. I think Endro was very excited to get a foreigner to his village as kind of an ego thing. He kept saying things like "you're probably the first foreigner to see this" and I feel he took pleasure in "showing me off to the neighbours. I chatted with dad (a bit) and did my best to assure his mother her house was clean and not in need of more sweeping. They gave me rambutri (type of fruit) from the tree in the front yeard and were generally wonderful.
His dad kept saying "your mother, she is okay?" and "your father, he is okay?" I assured him they both were (Hopefully I was right???). He told me my aura showed him I was smart (Endro was embarassed at that) and wanted me to stay the night. Alas....I used my connections to get a proper cotton sarong at a local price but then had to return to Yogya.

AS a person back at the losmen said, it sounds like you just had a day you'll remember when you're 90. It was one of those days where so much happened it was hard to get it all down at the time, and needless to say I'm not doing it justice here.

Yogya

Saw the Sultan's palace, the Kraton, a big whoopy doo, and the ruins of tyhe old water palace. That was really cool, they way all the houses are squeezed in and around. Lots of fun.

Then I actually succumbed to Batik. It's a traditional Inodnesian art form using dyes on cloth and wax and stuff. There are galleries and stores ALL OVER and people constantly trying to get you in the door and buying. Me being on a budget wasn't interested in the slightest. Then someone pointed me towards the "government run house" and since the guy who pointed me there didn't follow for a commission I figured it might be truthfully the government place. I've since begun to have doubts, or maybe the government is just as eager for a little Batik money (wouldn't surprise me). So I saw one piece, and this has never happened to me with art before, but I really really liked it. It was small and not tooo toooo much so I bought it. Then of course the barrier had been broken in my mind and I started looking at EVRYTHING. I managed to stop myself at 2 more pieces but I was dangerously close to many more. They only cost about $6-7 CDN each but that really messes with my budget... oh well. Live and learn I guess.

The next day I went to Borobodur, a big Buddhist temple and one of my readsons for coming here and paid $10 US to get in ($40 for all the temples of ANgkor over 3 days so 10 is a bit much). That is really expensive. To get out people have set up fake exits so you have to weave through vendor after vendor then you're still in the park. Everyone trying to make a living. Then the next day to Prambanan temples, this time Hindu ones. I'll talk about them in a bit,

INDONESIA!!!!

I'll admit it, I was very nervous to come here. I'll tell you why specifically in about a week. Don't want to jinx anything. But I arrived.

Waiting for the plane to leave I was thinking, "oh good, there are some other tourists going to Jakarta". Turns out they were all on a flight to Bangkok leaving from the same gate.
Got to Jakarta and sure enough I was the only face even resembling non-Asian, except for one really grim faced guy storming to his car in the parking lot (obviously been there for a while). I caught the bus to the train station and rather than stay in Jakarta bought a train ticket to Yogyakarta (aka Jogjakarta but more commonly Jogja, or Yogya, the y sounds like a j). It didn't leave for a while so MORE WAITING!!!!!!!! This time in a new place and not in AC and for even longer. Soooooo much fun you couldn't believe. Where's the sarcasm button? As I wrote in my journal, "This aimless sitting is driving me bonkers!" So it all the free time was obviously not conducive to writing thoughtful anything.
Once on the train and rolling, my mood lifted and I was in great form once again. Chatted with a pharmacy student beside me who REALLY likes Celine DIon and actually slept on the train ride. That is a rarity in the extreme.
Got to Yogya, found a nice place and saw the sights.

Wednesday, February 23, 2005

Georgetown departure

As I was cruising across the straight towards the mainland and my night train to KL, a week ago now, I realized I had given Penang and Georgetown the short end of the stick. It was more of a place to kill time in before leaving for Indonesia than a place I was actually visiting. Never the best way to see a place if you want to get the most out of it.

Also, once I was up and moving again my feelings about travel took a spin once again. I can't remember what I said last in here, but in Cameron H I was happy to sit, then I was pleased and excited to be moving again once I was on the train to KL. Unfortunately I then had to sit in a train station and an airport FOREVER. Killing that much time just sitting with your bags is really dull. Oh well

So travel opinions, waffling. Sitting around, dull. More on that in a second.

Tuesday, February 15, 2005

heads up

Just to give everyone a heads up. I don't know what the internet situation is going to be like in Indonesia. I am there for 2 weeks and entries might slow down a little bit. Unless I am very convinced of a places safety (ie there are no key tracers on the computers) I won't be touching hotmail or anything else. Chances are I'll just do blog entries if that's the case. Some sneaky Javan is more than free to log in here and post false entries. You'll be able to tell it's not me because there will be coherent thoughts, witty dialogue and above all else the word "the" will be spelt properly and not in the classic "teh" form.

and...

If you're reading these in order...

The old guy then told me I could have 6 girls at once in Suryaba. All for about 10 pounds sterling. I nodded and made protestations about not being interested.

"Sex always comes when dealing with young men travelling the world alone." ALthough I'm pretty sure it was this old man who brought it up, and what's a guy with 135 kids, or whatever he said, doing with knowledge on how much it costs to get 6 girls at once. Heh.

Don't worry everyone who cares about my moral rectitude, I won't be involving myself in any such activities. And for those who think it would be a great thing to do, I'm still not going to do it because it's creepy and I just know I would choose the 6 prostitutes who would drug me, tie me up, rob me and then turn out to be men in the end anyway. Hardly worth it.

I'm English!!

There's an old fella in the dorm here. WHen I first saw him he was wearing a wrap worn traditionally by the men around here and in Sumatra. Bit of a nutter I figured.

Later I found out he's beein living in Indonesia for thirty years 4 kids, 14 grand kids and so on. He was in Malaysia for visa requirements, every 6 months because a foreign wife can get citizenship but not a foreign hubby. "But the women are working on that" he says because some lady with a dutch husband just got elected.

He was an odd fellow. He would say things that sounded like a joke but when you tried to follow with one of your own, he either wouldn't note it as a joke or ignore it completely. The best though was when some other guy said "So you speak Bahasa then?" Bahasa being the language of Indonesia and Malaysia.
"I do not!" engraged. "I'm an Englishman!" Of course you are I thought because all englishmen wear pink and yellow cotton wraps and live in the mountains of Sumatra. AH well. They come in all sorts.

At some point I mentioned my impending trip to Java. "Why would you want to go there?" he said.
"To see it"
"You know it's the densest place in the world, just passed Belgium." I assumed he meant population. He then went on to attempt to explain that if Geography teachers taugh Geography and weren't specialists we would all know this about Java and we'd steer clear. I nodded and smiled, then went to have another shower to cool off.

At least the only bad things he said about Java were the sheer numbers of people. It's only 2 weeks that I'm there, so I can handle madness for that long. And Jakarta, I've heard before but int he course of conversations with him and others, is not a pleasant city. 11million plus people and it just keeps spreading and spreading and spreading. I'm going to try to get out of the city the night I land, and only return just in time for my flight. Hopefully all will go according to plan, I'll visit Java now and never have to return. Hooray!

travel slowdown

I've been finding that after I hit the Cameron Highlands the whole concept of travelling to new places has lost some of its lustre. Of course I'm still going places and seeing things, but there is a certain pleasant attraction to shacking up in the mtns for a few more weeks, reading, writing and watching movies, going for jungle walks periodically and eating roti canaii all the time.

(roti canaii -- I've mentioned it before and will say again. Awesome. For 60-80 sen you get to eat cheap and be fulfilled until lunch. I just can't say enough and am genuinely concerned about the fact there won't be roti canaii available when I get home.)

At the start of travelling Giuliana and I took a try to the north of Thailand, we just bought seats, not berths. We took all sorts of bus rides that just went on and on and on. Through all those I was able to be calm, consider myself a traveller and be happy. In Vietnam I had one overnight bus trip. When it was over I was overjoyed thinking how it was the last one for a long while. Now I'm looking ahead to some long trips in Indonesia and am not pleased at all. Also, I've taken to finding night trains and buying berths. I'm living large! Still on a very good budget but I've released some of the demons and allowed myself a few pleasures. After Indonesia I'm sleeping on a train to Indonesia then it's short bus rides until I start my attack on Thailand.

Deal with it as it comes I suppose.

Penang/Georgetown and so forth

Ugggh. Coming out of the cool Cameron Highlands was a shock to the ol' system. But I reclimatized fairly quickly. The ride down the mtns was quick, like the driver really needed to go to the washroom or something because we were rocketing. Out of boredom I started working out our speed with my watch and the kilometre markers on the roadside. We were above 80 for a lot which isn't that fast until you remember we're on the sides of mountains, with curves, hairpins and all.

Georgetown is the first British settlement in the region, before Singapore and Melacca for those with a thirst for knowledge. Once again there are a HUGE pile of mosques, churches and temples here. I've taken to doing walkbys as opposed to going into most. This saves me money and the aggravation of seeing the same things over and over. Don't get me wrong, they're all lovely, but I've seen the lovely already.
There's also a fort that I had a wander through, and some crazy old mansions and whatnot. Then I also went up Penang Hill. It's just a mountain outside of town, that you can either walk up or take the funicular (sp?) railway. Man are those fun! I have a thing for modes of public transit and discovered an interest in old railways on this trip, so just the ride up was a hoot. The hill itself was more "built up" than I thought. It's mostly tree covered but there are a few temples, cottages and former hotels/sanitoriums spread around the sides and at the top. WHen I say built up I mean these structures but also the stations along the railway, built onto the mountain side and there for people who happen to wander down a jungle trail and catch the train part way I suppose. Each train that goes up also has a little wagon that it carries supplies in. While up there I did a canopy walk. Springy catwalks through the tops of trees, with just enough movement to get you mildly nervous.

SO Penang is supposed to be a centre where a lot of thinkers, revolutionaries and that type of person has come through. That very well could be, but I get the feeling things may have changed. I was thinking a more laid back scene before my arrival, but as we were crossing the bridge I realized my error in thinking. Cars cars and cars heading both ways. Although the areas around the back of the island may be more empty, this side is cars and roads and more of the same. You can wander around the old city but periodically have to negotiate a few lanes. It just makes me think the revolutionaries will have to find a new place to sit in quiet contemplation.
Why do they all come here? My guess is they arrive normal and sleep in places that are too hot and stuffy. They don't sleep well and eventually go crazy and then become revolutionaries, just a guess.

My sleep actually went quite well. I had to lie very still, but I'm getting used to this whole heat business. Can't wait to get back to the highlands of course but for now I can deal with it. I'm actually considering skipping the east coast beaches and sitting in the highlands for another week after Hong Kong before heading to Bangkok. We shall see.

Saturday, February 12, 2005

Some more Cameron stuff

Still nice here. A little too busy over the holiday weekend but it's always nice and quiet up at Father's, or up the side of a mountain.

Did some more walks, ate some more yummy food, and I've taken to having tea every day at 430 accompanied with scones, jam and cream. Very nice!

I've been writing some more. Good for me!

Off to Penang tomorrow, then I fly to Indonesia on Thursday. More on that later...one more update pre departure because one never knows what the internet situation will be upon landing.

Oh, and there're board games and volleyball here as well. There's even a brand new scrabble board. This is the only reason I'm glad to not currently be accompanied by any female Galvani (Giuliana, Fiona or otherwise), as scrabble, a female Galvani and myself always results in extreme frustration and mind boggling high scores (not for me);)

Wednesday, February 09, 2005

for those keeping score

I have personally conquered Gunung Jasar and Gunung Perdah, at 1670m and 1576m respectively. No equipment or breathing apparatus used!

And I must say there is a certain sense of pleasure one gets being at the top of a mountain before 930 in the morning, and no one else is within earsshot (let alone visible). I'm not saying I'm to go off and climb Everest or anything, but I recommend you all find your nearest semi-inaccessible hill and start going up.

Oh yes...almost forgot

Part of my grumpiness that was developing in KL had to do with indecision. At least that was my guess. The possibilty of being a fashion model, no matter how slim, was just one more variable that I had to consider for my upcoming travels. What I would have time for, when I should book flights etc.

Unfortunately because I'm not travelling on an indefinite schedule I can't simply settle in one place and find a job, I'd run out of tiem to see the things I want to see. With no easy commercial shoot on the horizon, I simply worked out the rest of my trip...the flying bits at least.

I'm going to Indonesia on the 17th of February, and return to Malaysia on the 3rd of March. Then i go to Melacca and Singapore, and probably come back here for a bit. Then I fly to HONG KONG on March 15. That's the big news to most of you no doubt. I realized that there was the Rugby Sevens World Cup going on in Hong Kong in March, tehn it turned out there was flight deals that included tickets to the event. I couldn't very well NOT go. Since I've done so well budgeting I figured I deserved it. Of course it will put me into the ol' credit card but whatever. Have to do what's right, and this is so very very right.

Ahhhhh. Good stuff.

Cameron Highlands

As I've been travelling, in teh back of my mind I've been assessing places. Looking at them for what they would provide on a return trip analso what kind of writing I could get down to. So far the CH takes the cake.

It's an old British Hill Station built I believe for the first time in the 1920s. The temperature is great, about 2-26 during teh day, and it cools right down at night, so a few more pairs of long johns wouldn't go amiss next time. There are all kinds of jungle trails you can hike, with some of them only having a semblance of markings so it's a lot more fun! Then of course there are tea plantations all about, so after going for a long hike you can sit back and stare out at teh wonderful green hills, enjoying a cuop of very fresh tea. I think I've taken far too many pitures of various green landscapes so I'm trying to cut back. There are a few too many new tourist apartment blocks, but I didn't know the place without them and when you're in the jungle you can't see them!
I'm staying at Father's Guesthouse. On land owned by teh Catholic Church/Convent but run by a wonderful Indian family. Great restaurant, movies on teh big screen, lots of places to sit and write and very close to lots of cheap and tasty roti canai down town (downtown being about a 5 minute walk long). SUPER! Oh,. and roti Canai in a plastic bag and the curry thrown in on top is great for jungle hikes. By the time you get aroung to eating it, the roti has sucked up all the curry. Delicious.

For those in the know I will also add that the smells I get wng around here are a mixture of Granny's house and the cottage. WHo could ask for more than that?
I also calculated it and found out I could rent a permanent dorm bed for $682 US a year or thereabouts. Then of course I was talking to an older guy in the dorm, and he's a travel writer and photgrapher. He lives in Borneo and actually does keep a permanent bed here. Been here since September he tells me.

Cameron Highlands. Top place. I had decided before I left KL that I was going to give the big national park, Taman Nagara, a miss this time around. I figured I could return at t a future date with proper boots etc and get more out of it. Then I cam here and agreed with my decision even more. Now I can spend more time here, and return for cool down sessions between various hot cities.

The end of KL

KL was a nice enough place. It was hotter than I thought, especially after the AC in teh dorm needed its freon topped up, and it just didn't happen. So the heat and humidity I needed to get used to, and the heat made me sleep a little less well. On top of this Malaysia is one hour behind everywhere else I've been thus far, but it's the same longitude as Bangkok and well west of Vietnam. The end result is the sun's out later and my sleep is thrown off that little bit extra.

Little India is waaaaaaaaaaaay better than China Town. I'm talking food here of course. The Saturday night market, for 5RM (less than $2) I ate about 5 different snacks/meals and came home feeling very fullquite pleased with myself. Breakfast is a simple matter of roti canaii in Little India. Roti (fried flat bread) and a bowl of potatocurry for 80sen, YUM!

I saw Batu caves, a Hindu pilgrimage site the day AFTER teh big festival. They were cleaning things up, and even if I had thought to go, going on the day of the festival wouldn't be such a agood idea. Ridiculously packed would be an understatement. People everywhere hanging teapots off their bodies with hooks and stcking skewers through cheeks and so on. More power to them, but I'm just as happy to see their pics in the paper as witness it first hand, h a few thousand others stuffed together in the sweltering heat. Nice caves though.

I also saw the Islamic arts museum which was quite nice as well. My favourite part was teh little models of different mosques they had on diplay from all over the world. I say little models but of course only speak in relation to real life.

But it was hot and I was getting grumpy.

I was going to make my audition tape for that clothing shoot, but the guy never. I think it's all legit, but the talent recruiter is just some young guy, and nto really on the ball. His failure to appear though saw me go into a grump and brought forth the sudden decision to GET OUT!

Next morning I bought a ticket and rode off to the Cameron Highlands.


If my typing appears even wan normal it's because these comps have a bit of a delay on them and sometimes by the time they catch up they frget what keys I've pressed.

Friday, February 04, 2005

Kuala Lampur

Quickie!

Hot and more humid, but I guess my body has adjusted because I'm doing okay. Clean airport (reallyliked it) very high tech, along with the various trains I took to China town. But justas you say that, there was a cockroach crawling across the polished granite at the main train station, you can take the dirt out of Asia, but you'll never get rid of the roaches. Lots of foods, and quite the variety, and because it's close to Chinese New Year there are all these crazy stalls selling thin BBQ'd squares of pork and chicken. And there's one restaurant that seems to have a 50 person line out the door constantly.

Went up the Petronas Towers (the twin ones) and out on ther sky bridge...it was free so what the hey. It was the tallest building, but is now surpassed by one in Taiwan.

It and some museum displays I saw here and in Vietnam helpoed me make some interesting observations. I can draw the parallel I feel because both nations have similar goals of being "fully industriaLIzed by 2020".

In many of their displays they focus again and again on their hightech efforts at making the buildings or, hosting the Commonwealth games, or some conference. They're fixated on being seen as members of teh world and have a hidden inferiority complex about it. It isn't a big thing but I feel it's there.

That's it for now. There's a poster on the door of my guesthouse asking for people to tryout for parts in a series of clothing commercials. I think I might give them a call and see how much they'll pay, depends on what role I get of course.... If I get it they'll give me money and I might need to extend the old flight again because time=money. If I'm giving them my time so they give me their money I won't have the time to visit all the things I want to.

Soon to be on an Asian TV screen near you!

should have mentioned

I got hit by a motorcycle in Saigon. Not a big hit, just a graze, but man was I angry.

Maybe I didn't see him because he was driving down the middle of the street, the wrong way down a one way street and I was looking the other way at that traffic. Maybe he hit me because his warning consisted of "yo" a split second before he hit me. I guess we'll never know.

Letme say, it is sooooo infuriating to look at a pack of Vietnamese moto drivers, all their faces are set in an empty stare and they're all just thinking, "I have to get to wher I'mgoing and damn everyone else". The light turned red? I still have tome to get through the intersection...
Construction work? Every time there's a tiny gap I'll go through, slowing the work and making the delay long er for everyone....

You know how when there's a holdup on a highway and everyone waits, inching forward a little bit at a time, but then there's always one idiot who has to drive up the shoulder of the road? Well imagine a nation full of those people.

I think my periodic fantasies of seeing a motodriver smashed onto the front of a bus is well founded. And if the stats of 13000 traffic fatalities a year in Vietnam that tour guides always quote are correct, I'm surprised I didn't get to see it.

Thursday, February 03, 2005

And Giuliana

I know she reads it too. And maybe Jacqueline, but I think Duncan would edit the racy parts for her. If anyone else reads it tell me, I'm interested to know.

Off to Malaysia

I'm flying to Malaysia tomorrow, landing in Kuala Lampur then figuring where I should hole up until Chinese new Year is over. not that I want to avoid the thing but my schedule has been tightening as I've added more things and I can't have myself getting stuck for a week in an uninteresting place when other things await.

I'm secretly plotting a trip to Hong Kong but don't tell anyone. The proposed dates surround the weekend of the 18-20 March but I'll let you figure out what that means. By you I mean one of 5, yes 5 confirmed readers. Mum, dad, Duncan MMM and Gill. Although I have my suspicions about regularity....heh regular doesn't matter, as long as you take a big dump at the end of the week you're fine!

And I guess I should menton this, in Mui Ne I started another story...it's going nicely. I don't want to call it a novel because I want it to end when it's ready, not after 500 stupid pages. I also don't want to bother explaining what it's all about either so don't ask. You'll find out when it'spublished!

Saigon

Saigon is an interesting place. Unfortunately for all of you writing is tiring me (read boring) and I'm going to abbreviaet. However, I'll make you all a deal. I will graciously allow you to listen to me talk your ear off about any details that are lacking when I get home.

SAigon. Tintin shirts. They're cool. KFC, colonel SAnders really looks like Ho Chi Minh (HA!). CuChi Tunnels, outside of town and from teh Vietnam war, holy cool! These things are tiny and not pleasant, expecially if people are trying to kill you. We did a 120m stretch and man oh man, my shoulders are a bit scratched from a few places where the tunnel said "you must only have even rice in the past 6 years to enter here". Everything's within walking distance...hmmm.

2 museums today. One I really liked because I was able to note a few errors in the setup and was also able to recognize how things had been placed so as to send an underlying message on Vietnam, it's place in the world and Communism. Being able to constructively break thing down???? University must have done some good. Now to apply my skills... dang.
The other museum, The War Remnants Museum I liked because it was fairly balanced. It had a section with all sorts of photos taken by journalists o both sides and bios of tonnes of them (crazy research), and also had examples of all the nasty things the French, Americans and South Viwetnamese did (with the US knowing) to various Vietnamese. It isn't anything earth shattering, My Lai massacre and Agent OPrange are common knowledge, but it's good for it to be there. The US isn't hiding fascts or denying teh truths but we need to remember these sorts of things....nobody's perfect not erven purported beacons of freedom. Abu Garhib prison anyone????? Hmmmmm.

And that's Saigon I guess. Good food, seventh floor dorm, so I burn lots of it off. Oh and I also did a trip to the Mekong Delta!@ Pure coconut candy is soooooooooooooooooooooooooooo good. Pure as in no sugar added.

food

Why do I take such pride in eating like a local????? Dunno although I've asked the question about 67 times on here already. I've decided I'm pleased when I stick to a budget, but also pleased to stick out a little. If someone says, where did you eat while travelling? And I say at restaurants, everyone says "that's nice". If however I answer "Oh I ate 5000 doing bowls of soup bought from ladies who carry it on their shoulders, or at a restaurant where teh stools get set out on the sidewalk for the evening" that sets me apart a little bit.

While travelling I have in my mind (not on purpose it's just 6there) the image of what for me is the perfect traveller. By eating on the cheap I bring myself closer to this imagined perfection (or something ---- if that wasn't religious imagery, YIKES!)

Of course there's always the fact that why pay 25000 for the bowl of soup that can be had for 5ooo a few steps away. So I get a chair and table, I'd still feel kinda jipped. And what about western food? That is saved for when I need a pick me up (I'm so strung out on crack that isn't often - joke) or when I have money left and I'm leaving a country. I've been gorging a little bit today. Somebody's going to be tubby if he isn't careful!

So then I...

Left Nha Trang and went to Mui Ne. Managed to find the only place on the beach willing to give me a single room for $5. HA! I rule. Lovely time there...swimming and reading and stuff. Did a lot of walking and considering the place is spread alopng a beach a few kilometres long thta was a lot of walking. Worth it though for all the money saved and delicviousness tasted. Of course I also became a bit of an eccentric in the eyes of some f the locals and hotel staff. By the end moto drivers were offerring me rides for free if they were going my way, no one could figure out the walking habit if you could afford (which they figured I could) a moto. I even went for a jog along the beach one morning, very nce, right until the blisters started forming. Heh, just makes my feet that much tougher!

Hmmm, what else to say.

Oh and my final note on Vietnam and whether I like or like less...I hope because I do leave tomorrow. It's the people in the North who are the raving jackasses, only out for money and never with a smile. ^The further south I got the nicer people became, even here in Saigon, the reputed rebooery capital of the coutry they've been great. The best was Mui Ne though. Me and my driver Hnam (ignore the H) had a few games of pool over the course of my stay and basically just shot the shit. He's a good guy, wants to be a motorcycle taxi driver in Texas one day (didn't tell him there wasn't much demand). He took me out to see the sights in Mui Ne, and let me tell you about them!

The main one is a giant white sand sand dune just plonked down in the middle of everything. Away from any kind of water. I have always enjoyed climbing hills but have rarely got to the top of one, looked around and simply had toi say holy shit like 86 times. I'm going to go and get lost in teh Sahara and until the whole blistering burns and lack of water kicks in I think I'm going to have a pretty groovy time. There were also some red sanddunes and a red canyon, but they paled in comparison. Then I went to the fairy stream. A red stream that you walk up to it's "source". Well not quite but after about a 1/2 hour walk you get to these little water falls that come from magical fairy land I guess. What also makes it cool is the rock formations along the edges. The ground is some sort of dissolveable rock and sand. The water kind os leaches out of the sand dunes, slowly but visibly causing little slides and stuff, and enters the stream. The bits of rock that are around of course remain and form neat sculprures archways and stuff. Very cool.

Sorry I'm not using the brilliant prose we all know I can, but I'm just trying to catch up on things without spending too much time or money.

Mui Ne....very cool.

Wednesday, January 26, 2005

Exercise

Part of my reason for getting up so early this morning was to see the exercisers. Now this isn't a bunch of old people in a park in CHina doing tai chi, this is EVERYONE.

Kids sprinting along the water's edge, groups of people (mostly older) moving in unison to tinny old tape recorders barking out orders. SOme groups were doing their exercises with sticks, while others had live leaders.

Badminton nets are set up and people play, but some just play on the beach without a net. A few people were een playing a quick game of soccer. Then of course there are the joggers and wal;kers doing their thing on the road or along the the shore. And of course some people out for a swim.

The greatest thing though is the warmups. These are basically whatever moves you feel like, and for some people are the entirety of the exercise. Wiggle your hips, lift your arms, stretch your legs (with a 90 degree bend at the knee of course, but why should that matter?) It's all very fun to watch.

This goes on until the sun comes up and then most of the people head home to get ready for their day, a few keep going (or arrive) to do their thing, but by the time I walked back to my hotel the formerly fairly empty streets were rocking with all sorts of vehicles.

It was funny to see a whit guy in his pink shorts out at around 630, but while at home he'd be early, here he was exercising at the tail end of things.

People are skinnier over here...sure. Diet is surely a part of this, but the fact that sooo many people get up every morning to get some exercise in must play a roll as well. It was very good to see the kids out sprinting. If there're any fat kids reading this GET OFF YOUR LAZY ASS and SPRINT ALONG THE BEACH or something.